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The Reinvention of the Co-op

By Joe Gilmour | Published: November 7, 2011

Co-Op in Southern France

Driving through Southern French wine country, you learn to recognise the local cave co-op pretty easily.  Located on the outskirts of the town, with functional concrete design and a run-down demeanour, you see countless variations all over the region. For the small wine-grower in the early 20th century, it seemed like an ideal way of making wine more efficiently. He was fed up of the small-scale facilities he would have likely had at home and saw the attractiveness of pooled resources, communal production and greater control of production. From 1901 villages all around Southern France and beyond caught the bug.

Today, these monuments to pooled production, quantity, affordability and local terroir are largely on their knees. Caught between being able to compete at the bottom, one euro a bottle market for cheap wine and the higher, quality end of the spectrum their days look numbered. Which is why, as we were driving through the Languedoc to meet cutting-edge, exciting winemakers, we were confused to be turning up at local co-ops. After retracing our steps a few times, we gained entry to these concrete temples and discovered the winemakers we were due to see, making wine, in an almost squatter-like fashion amongst the ruins of the grand old co-ops. One particularly exciting visit was to Loic Roure at Domaine de Possible. He and other like-minded vignerons had clubbed together to rent the local co-op, blast through the walls of the cuvee Betons and make small-production, foot-trod, ‘natural’, stunning wine we hope we can import a bit of next year.  The winery was decorated with Banksy-style grafitti, pictures of Hendrix and a design studio in the roof. An amazing space.

Co-Op in Southern France

Loic and his friends are all young, talented, super-generous and passionate about what they do, not beating a drum about any manifesto other then making the sort of wine they want to drink.  What I find so inspiring about this kind of thing is the brilliance of French winemaking culture to innovate, change and revitalise itself and in doing so, make the sort of wines that make many producers in the new-world look hopelessly old-fashioned and out-of-step with the sort of wines we find people increasingly want to buy. Drinkable, fresh, complex wines for convivial evenings not the fatigued palates of tasting panels.

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Ruinart’s perfect catch

By Paul Hannagen | Published: October 19, 2011

Ruinart Champagne

Slow baked trout, mussel vinaigrette, mushroom tart and herb salad.

Ingredients

4 x 200g Trout steaks (skin on)
Herbs (as below).
500g mussels (scrubbed and de-bearded)
100ml Olive oil
50ml Champagne (or white wine)
30ml lemon juice
Seasoning
500g Chestnut mushrooms
A clove of Garlic
100g Puff pastry (all butter)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
Oil
Butter
Seasoning
Frisée lettuce
Chives
Chervil
Tarragon
Any other herbs such as coriander and flat leaf parsley
Olive oil
Lemon

Method

This is a simple but impressive recipe, perfect for a dinner party or a special occasion. The vivacity and oaked character of Ruinart Champagne will work beautifully with this dish. Because of the nearly aperitif style of Ruinart, it is imperative to keep the weight of the dish very light so it works in harmony with the champagne.

First prepare the mushroom tart. This is a lot easier than it sounds. Finely slice the mushrooms and heat a frying pan on a high heat. Add the oil and, when smoking, add the mushrooms. Season. When the mushrooms are wilted and nearly cooked add a knob of butter. Drain in a colander. When cool, transfer to a cloth and drain any excess moisture out.

Roll out the pastry to 2mm thickness on top of a sheet of baking parchment. Place the mushrooms in a bowl and test the seasoning. At this point feel free to add the mustard.

Spread the mushrooms on the rolled-out puff pastry in a thin but even layer. Place another piece of baking parchment on top and roll with a rolling pin. When evenly flat, sandwich the pastry between two baking sheets to weigh down and bake for 15-20 minutes at 180 degrees until crisp and golden brown. Leave to rest for a few minutes

Meanwhile prepare the trout. Set the oven to 70 degrees. Check for any pin bones and trim off any fat. Dress it with good quality olive oil and season. Place on a baking tray and cover as much of the flesh as possible with the herbs and thinly sliced lemon. Bake for about 20- 25 minutes until medium in the middle of the fillet, checking every few minutes after 15 minutes to ensure the trout does not overcook. Cooking trout in this way gives it a beautifully yielding and buttery texture, not unlike confit.

When the trout is within 5 minutes of being cooked, start with the mussels. Heat a pan with a tight fitting lid on the stove. When hot, add the mussels and champagne. Place the lid on the pan and cook until the mussels open. Drain in a colander reserving the juice. Pick the meat from the shells, discarding any which have not opened. Place in a bowl with three tablespoons of the cooking liquor. Season with chopped herbs, olive oil and the lemon juice. Allow to cool slightly.

Wash and thoroughly dry the herbs and frisée for the salad. Dress with the olive oil and lemon, and season.

To plate up, place a rectangular slice of the warm mushroom tart just off centre on the plate, remove the trout from the oven and remove the herbs and season with salt and lemon if necessary, place the trout  hanging off the tart. Place a small mound of the herb salad on the other side of the tart. Dress the trout and the plate with the warm mussel vinaigrette and serve with Ruinart.

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A Trip to Champagne – Part II: Veuve Clicquot

By Marc Ditcham | Published: September 22, 2011

Wandering Champagne connoisseur Marc Ditcham continues his epic two day journey with a visit to Veuve Clicquot. Missed part one? Catch up now…

Inside of Veuve Clicquot

The next morning I woke early to a stifling room and a groggy head, not helped by the defunct air conditioning unit and certainly not helped by the whisky sours and the cognacs consumed only hours before in the hotel bar.

Breakfast was a quiet affair with members of our party sporadically entering the dining room yawning, wiping sleep from their eyes –next stop Veuve Cliquot.

There are few brands in the wine world (indeed world) that provoke such yearnings of desire, and hardly any that manage to capture it purely through the use of one colour. The red of Ferrari is one; the yellow of Veuve Cliquot is another– its yellow not orange! Bar the bright yellow flag flapping at full mast, the exterior of the Veuve Cliquot is quite subdued. It is only on entering the reception area that the synonymous artwork presents itself – pink/yellow birds of paradise in birdcages, bright yellow sofas, yellow dangly things and all other strange doohickeys coloured yellow and bizarre. The business offices/makeshift museum provides an insightful background to Veuve Cliquot and its history timeline.

The first recording of Veuve Cliquot was in 1772 when Philippe Cliquot registered the wine business after inheriting a number of vineyards. Following his death in 1798 his son Francois took control of his business but tragically he too passed away prematurely in 1805 leaving the estate to his 27 year old widow (Veuve) Barbe Nicole Cliquot Ponsardin – the rest they say is history. Probably the youngest business woman at the time, the legacy that she created is truly remarkable. Not only did she understand the market and manage the demand for her product she was the pioneer behind the most notable champagne practice – riddling. Determined to improve the appearance of her product, she found that shaking the bottles loosened sediment stuck to their sides. The sediment would eventually settle to the bottom if the bottles were left upright. To get the deposits closer to the neck, she used gravity, cutting holes in her kitchen table to place the bottles upside down. Today machinery is used to recreate the riddling process, so don’t be left thinking that every champagne house is home to thousands of kitchen tables.

Ouside of Veuve's Champagne House

After the history lesson it was down into the chalk cellars again. Identical to the cellars of Ruinart it was hard to not feel a sense of déjà vu. The only marked difference between the two being the distance; a staggering 24 kilometres make up the Cliquot cellars. To avoid workers and bewildered visitors getting lost in the chasms a simple but ingenious solution has been employed – a painted yellow line from entrance to exit…a little like the yellow brick road in the Wizard of Oz – though absent of the lion, tin man and scarecrow. However unlike Dorothy the yellow path didn’t lead me to the Emerald City, instead leading me to Veuve Cliquot’s most treasured possession – a bottle of the world’s oldest Verve Cliquot (c.230 years) salvaged from a Baltic wreck in July 2010.

From a late eigthteeth century bottle to a more recent vintage we were soon above ground enjoying some Veuve Cliquot NV Brut, Rose and vintage 2002s. Having not held a flute of champagne in twelve hours the first gulp was a welcome hit. Leaving the tasting room we were soon whisked away to the jewel in Veuve Cliquot’s crown.

Overlooking Veuve Cliquot’s premier cru vineyards at Bouzy is situated the Manoir de Verzy. Built in the second half of the 19th century and acquired by Veuve Cliquot in 1902, this fine manoir was part of the wedding gift to the daughter of Alfred Werle, the widow Cliquot’s successor and Bertrand de Mun, who was later to head the firm. Throughout the 20th century the manor was the residence of the heads of Veuve Cliquot vineyards and their families. In 1997, however, a major restoration project converted the manor for its new role and the building and grounds became a site for hosting special guests and a retreat for writers and artists due to its serene and tranquil setting.

Though sunny and hot the day before, today was decidedly cool and breezy, but that did little to deter us from venturing into the garden where we were presented with a glass of NV Veuve and canapés before lunch. Over the wall of the grounds a large plot of chardonnay vines has been assigned a special role, and is dedicated to highly achieving businesswomen. Since 1972, the Veuve Cliquot Business Woman of the Year Award has been presented to remarkable female entrepreneurs throughout the world. It was launched by Alain  de Vogue, Bertrand de Mun’s grandson, and CEO of Veuve Cliquot from the 1972 to 1987, to coincide with the firms bicentenary, which was also celebrated by the production of the first Grande Dame vintage as a tribute to Madame Cliquot. Ever since the manor at Verzy was restored, it is there that the winners are received in June every year. The company devotes a vine within the Verzy vineyard to them, which henceforth bears their name – and every year they each receive a bottle of La Grande Dame for their birthdays.

Heading back inside we were host to a spectacular lunch. Unlike most menus where the wine plays ‘second fiddle’ and the food commands centre stage the reverse was true of this menu. Designed and prepared by a former employee of Alain Duccasse’s the brief of this particular menu was to marry the food to the wine; it worked beautifully and it was the first time I tried a Verve Cliquot’s Demi Sec.

Fantastic lunch at Veuve

After lunch we had a quick nosey around the rest of the manor and though it was a working winery in years past I was still surprised to see the relics of the past (a traditional basket press, sorting table and fermentation vessels) hidden behind one of doors at the side of the house.

Bidding farewell to the lady of the house, whose job it is to welcome guests from Veuve Cliquot we ascended the steps to the mini bus and headed off – destination home.

Though I am all for boutique wineries and artisan producers such as the domains and vignerons we seek out and support at Roberson, you cannot help but admire the goliath that is Champagne. A multi billion pound industry today, you would have reason to believe that over the years the money generated would have made the Grand Marques complacent. In reality nothing could be further than the truth. Through my visit to Ruinart and Veuve Cliquot it is very much evident that their quest for perfection is continuous and draws upon years of experience and history. Regardless of the correlation between the sustained investment in marketing generated from sales and the growth in demand what is undeniable is that over the years the quality has never been compromised – It’s never tasted better!

Enjoying a coffee after lunch

 

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A Trip to Champagne – Part I: Ruinart

By Marc Ditcham | Published: September 15, 2011

Having been fortunate enough to be invited to join Moet Hennessy on a trip to Reims, Champagne in March I thought it was time to reflect and to share my experience of visiting two of the truly great Grand Marques; Ruinart and Veuve Cliquot.

For many, waking up early on a Monday morning to face the daily grind of the commute into work is certainly not greeted with glee. However when that commute is a visit to one of the most important and revered wine regions in the world it does ease the pain somewhat.

Having been informed by my manager Joe many weeks prior that I had been selected to go; for me the day couldn’t come have come quicker – I was as excited as a schoolboy in a candy shop, or should that be a vinophile in Robersons? So when the day finally arrived I was filled with joy and anticipation.

Arriving at St Pancras at dawn I couldn’t help feeling that I had taken the wrong tube and stepped off at the departures terminal at Heathrow. Having never travelled Eurostar I wasn’t expecting all of the formalities usually associated with foreign travel.

During the journey it was a chance to become acquainted with the other lucky soles chosen by Moet Hennessy to share the experience with me. Their selection, like mine at Robersons was based on their company’s successful promotion and sale of the Moet Hennesy product range over the past year. A feat that I cannot help but think is made all the more easy by the strength of the Moet Hennesy brands – a tour de force upon itself when it comes to Champagne.

It wasn’t long before we arrived in Lille and transferring our suitcases to a private mini bus to make the arduous and lengthy journey to Reims a mere 150 miles away – apparently a quicker route than changing trains at Paris. It wasn’t long into the journey when I heard the sigh of a cork being popped and the glug of champagne being poured. Arrr the lavish grandeur of working in the wine trade you are probably thinking to yourself. Alas no. The grandeur was soon spoilt as the Costa Coffee styroform cups stolen earlier at St Pancreas were used as the drinking vessel for the continuous pours of Moet Brut Imperial and Moet Brut Rose.

As the miles dwindled away and the light headiness of early morning alcohol rescinded the Reims skyline grew ever closer. We checked into the Hotel de la Paix at midday and after disposing of our suitcases we were soon seated at the terrace restaurant enjoying a very satisfying lunch of onion soup starter, followed by lobster for main. To clench our thirst we opted for an obvious choice of Ruinart NV from magnum and a Chinon from a lesser known producer.

The Lighthouse of Verzenay and the Vine Museum

After lunch and nursing a second headache we finally headed out; destination the Lighthouse of Verzenay (I didn’t realise Champagne was on the coast?) and the Vine Museum. Receiving 170,000 people since opening, the museum was erringly quiet on our arrival. However unlike most visitors we were fortunate enough to be guided around by a very charming and insightful Ruinart representative – whose name unfortunately escapes me. The museum itself is very educational and unlike most museums it manages to successfully incorporate the history of Champagne through an interesting series of film, word and dioramas.

Feeling a little nauseous after all the wine and rich food and not being a great fan of heights I was a little reluctant to climb the 101 steps of the lighthouse. However not wanting to stand out like a bottle of Cava in an all Champagne line up I embarked the ascent. The panoramic view from the top was well worth the climb and to see the vines looking resplendent in the spring sunshine, equally so. Thankfully a glass of Ruinart Blanc de Blanc greeted me at the bottom of the stairwell, and though the dichotomy of drinking champagne to steady my nerves and control my nausea confused me, I was not one to turn down another flute of champers.

Heading to the house of Ruinart it was interesting to see all the other famous Champagne houses pass me by; Charles Heidsick, Taitinger, Pommery etc – if only I had a few more days to visit each one.

First established in 1729, twenty years after the death of Dom Ruinart, Nicholas Ruinart (Dom Ruinart’s nephew) founded the first ever champagne house – Maison Ruinart. Today steeped in history it’s a Champagne recognised and appreciated throughout the world for its elegance and finesse.

Outside of the Ruinart Champagne House

From the reception area we were escorted to ‘The Crayeres’ (Ruinarts’ chalk cellars). It is in these ex Gallo-Roman chalk quarries where the wine slowly matures in bottle. At a depth of 38 metres and over 8 kilometres of galleries it is a true sight to behold – no wonder it was classified as a historical monument in 1931. These crayères offer the triple benefit of a constantly stable temperature, the complete absence of vibration and a perfect humidity level, providing ideal conditions for the fermentation and maturation of the Ruinart wines.

Surfacing above ground like a mole from a molehill we were invited to one of the reception suites where we were introduced to Frederic Panaiotis, Ruinart’s Cellar Master. A very stylish and educated man, with a calm yet imposing presence he talked us through the wines like a father would of his children. In order of tasting, ‘R’de ruinart, Ruinart Blanc de Blanc, Dom Ruinart 1998, Ruinart Rose and Dom Ruinart Rose 1996.

Bidding farewell to the Ruinart maison we drove back to the hotel where we had chance to collect our thoughts, get dressed, sober up, before heading back out again, however not before a sneaky glass of Ruinart ‘R’ at the bar which again managed to negate the aforementioned act. Our dinner was at a newly opened restaurant in the centre of Reims. Unfortunately the name of the establishment evades me, a real shame as the food was excellent.

The famous Roman cellars of Ruinart

Want to know what happened next? Marc’s adventures continue in Part II: Veuve Clicquot…

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From the Archives – Cliff’s Christmas Song 2007

By Ben Greene | Published: July 29, 2011

Cliff and the Mothers: Christmas 2007

If you’re one of the many people who enjoyed Cliff’s Christmas Single last year then it’s your lucky day. A rummage through the archives today turned up Cliff and the Mothers’ 2007 Christmas Song, which was long thought lost.

Download the song now (right click and choose ‘Save target as’, ‘Download linked file’ or similar) and get ready to experience a dose of Christmas in July.

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Home Cured Salmon and a Great Champagne

By Paul Hannagen | Published: July 20, 2011

Wild Salmon

Hello all. I’m sorry it’s been a while but it’s a busy existence working at Roberson these days – with fantastic wines and tastings galore, it is a wine enthusiast’s paradise! Recently we had an introduction to Champagne tasting, the one I had been waiting for. Among other top Champagnes on show were Krug Grande Cuvée, Cristal 2004 and Dom Perignon 2002. At the end of the night, in traditional Roberson fashion, everyone was asked what, for them, was the outstanding wine of the evening. I expected it to be a three way scuffle between the aforementioned. The winner was in fact a small producer’s Blanc de Noir: Dosnon & Lepage from the Cotes des Bar region, near the town of Avirey-Lingley . Their 100% Pinot Noir cuvée is rich and sumptuous, with beautiful brioche and patisserie on the nose, and fully ripe green apple and pear flavours. High acidity balances the rich body seamlessly.

Champagne is quite a difficult wine to pair because there are so many variables .The bubbles, acidity, intensity and flavour profile all need to be taken into account to ensure a successful match. This salad of home-cured salmon, potato and bacon is just right for the finely balanced Blanc de Noirs. And is a beautiful, simple dish that can be easily transformed into canapés or frozen if well-wrapped.

Home cured salmon with potato and bacon salad (Serves 4 easily)

Ingredients

For the Salmon:

400g Salmon fillet (from the thickest end of the fillet, skin on)
100g lime infused vodka
110g table salt
110g Caster sugar
Handful of herbs (dill, thyme basil are good options)
Zest of one lemon

For the salad:

500g charlotte potatoes (peeled weight)
1 tbsp good quality wholegrain mustard
50 ml good white wine vinegar
180ml good olive oil
2 tbsp finely minced herbs (thyme, basil, parsley)
150g pancetta (diced into lardons)
Seasoning

To garnish:

Pea shoots

Method

First the salmon. This needs to be prepared at least 18 hours before serving. Place the salmon on a board and clean off any bones, scales and white fat. Mix all the ingredients together except the vodka. Pour over the salmon and rub to cover the fish. Then pour over the vodka and massage into the flesh. The mixture will go very soggy. Marinate flesh side down and turn every three hours. After 18 hours wash the fish thoroughly and dry. Wrap and refrigerate until needed.

Bring a pan of water to the boil with a clove of garlic, sprig of thyme and some salt. While that is happening, sauté the bacon lardons in hot vegetable oil until golden brown and crisp all over. Drain, reserving one tablespoon of the fat. Then make the vinaigrette. Place the mustard, vinegar and herbs in a bowl and whisk together. Gradually add the oil while whisking. When all the oil is incorporated, add the mixture to the bacon and reserved fat, stir to combine and season. Be wary when seasoning as bacon releases salt as it cools.

Dice the potatoes into 1cm cubes and add to the simmering water. When just cooked, remove with a slotted spoon and add to the bowl with the vinaigrette. Toss and allow to cool to room temperature. When cool test for seasoning

To serve, place the potato salad on a plate in a single layer ensuring it is well moistened with the vinaigrette. On a chopping board, cut a piece off the thickest end of the salmon diagonally (don’t serve this piece – it will be over-cured). Very thinly slice seven pieces per portion. Place in a crisscross fashion over the salad. Pour over a little vinaigrette and season. Garnish with snipped pea shoots and serve with the superb Dosnon and Lepage Recolte Noir N.V.

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The Grande and the Good

By Joe Gilmour | Published: July 12, 2011

I couldn’t quite put my finger on it but there was something a bit, well naff about an organisation called the Champagne Academy. To me, it sounded a bit hoorah, and when I looked at some of the photo’s from the social evenings I really wasn’t sure that I wanted to be a part of it as they did nothing to dispel this impression. As an independent we feel an affinity to the small guy who quietly focusses on the product and has no time for billboards, adverts and inane marketing activity.

To those unitiated in such things, as I was, the Champagne Academy was set up 1956 by the 16 Grande Marques as a way of promoting and educating the UK trade in their wines. And whilst I have always had a healthy respect for the big names of Champagne and not been particularly impressed by some of the slagging off they get from some hardened terroirists, I still was not sure I wanted to join in a week of back-slapping and one-sided promotion.

But from talking to importers and others it looked too good an opportunity to miss. Getting a chance to see all of the Grande Marques, taste everything produced and on the market and get the chance to talk to some of the most interesting and powerful people in the world of wine was too good to miss. Talking conspiracy theories with Pierre-Emammanuel Taittinger, winemaking with Ruinart Chef de Cave Frederick Panaiotois and the future of Moet et Chandon with it’s VP Jean Berchon was all very enlightening.

Our time was split between Epernay and Reims. The small town and the big city. We had a long week of tasting, lectures and dinners. We went from the youngest vin claires and reserve wines to Moet et Chandon 1911, by way of Heidsiek Champagne Charlie 1981, 1985, Krug 1981, 1998 Clos de Mesnil and too many others too mention. All in the kind of heat that makes you curse you were born English.

What were my thoughts at the end of the trip? There were some great wines and many open, honest and truly fine producers.  There was also a certain desire to control the message and a lack of interest in what the UK trade actually thought of their products. There were the wines of Charles Heidsieck, superb and under-represented in the UK. The new light show at Reims cathedral is a must-see for any visitor to the city. A trippy, very French, artistic experience. The food we had was rich, quite monotonous (with some exceptions) and, in my opinion, a bit dated, especially in the ‘top’ restaurant in Reims, Les Crayeres. Once possessing 3 stars, now without any, I feel that this sort of rich, classic French style is looking increasingly anachronistic in the light of chefs like Barbot working towards a ‘new’ style of cuisine that looks for lighter, fresher flavours.

But I think the big thing I took from the week was a reminder of just how good Champagne can be. Sure, there are big brands and Champagne has mastered the luxury brand like no-one else in the world. But the product still comes first. As much as I still love small Champagne houses, one can forget sometimes that big doesn’t neccesarily equal bad.

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A Fine Wine Revolution

By Joe Gilmour | Published: May 18, 2011

The New Roberson Fine Wine Area

Well, finally.

After years, and I mean years, of talking, plans, sketches and delays, the refit of the fine wine area is complete. Those of you who are regulars will know well the wild-west style wine cage that we have had lurking menacingly at the back of our Kensington High Street Shop for the last two decades. In it we placed the finest and rarest wines held at Roberson. Over the years the great bottles that graced this strange locked spot included 1899 Lafite, 1947 Petrus, 1978 Jayer Cros Parantoux and pretty much everything between.

While we always had a certain affection for this space, it was felt that the security and separateness of it might prove a bit imposing to customers curious to know what was in there, and if there is one thing that Roberson is about, it is certainly not intimidation of the customer. Even if you have only popped in for a bottle of Chardonnay for dinner, it still feels a bit special to look at what £2000 would buy you for the same evening. 1986 DRC Montrachet anyone?

Work eventually started a few months ago on refitting this area in a more welcoming and open way. Out went the separate, caged area, in came clean, metallic display cases, low level light and a turn of the century (that’s 20th century!) table to meet and talk about your choices (and of course, no fine wine area would be complete without a wooden emu from a Victorian fairground ride, so we got one of those as well). We are really happy with the work but we’d love to hear your opinion so please get back to us with any feedback.

We weren’t just working on the look of the section during this time, we were also working on the prices. We have looked afresh at what the fine wine consumer wants and have made transparent our prices at the same level as wholesale. This means that for all existing stock and all future purchases of fine wine you get the best price we can offer, whether you’re a restaurant buying dozens of cases or an individual looking for a single bottle for a special occasion. We are now one of the most, if not the most competitive source of fine wine by the bottle in London. We certainly have the biggest range, standing at well over 800. Recently, Jancis Robinson wrote in the Financial Times that finding serious fine wine by the bottle was difficult in the capital. Not any more, and in fact she was kind enough to say, after seeing our new place, that ‘Roberson has one of the UK’s best, probably the best, collection of really good quality mature wine available by the single bottle’. Well, now we’ve got great prices to match.

With this refit and new, lower prices we hope to consolidate our credentials as the only place to go in London for fine wine. Now, where’s that Montrachet? Should go nicely with my fish and chips this evening.

There are far too many fine wines which have had their prices dramatically lowered to list, but if you want to browse a selection of highlights, we’ve collected them together on our website.

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Château Lassolle Sauvignon Gris

By Jean-Remi Barris | Published: April 7, 2011

ww-fr-lassolleA lot is being written about natural wines at the moment, even our famously sceptical Joe Gilmour wrote about it! Some love them, some hate them, they leave no one indifferent. It is true that some of them can be dangerously sliding towards the kingdom of funkiness but when everything goes well and foul smelling bacteria are kept at bay, the result can be out of this world.

Originally from Normandy, Stephanie Roussel had spent the last few years working behind the counter of a wine bar in Bordeaux when she decided to buy Château Lassolle in 2002. Château Lassole is a domaine of 10 ha located in the Côtes de Marmandais, just south-east of Bordeaux and planted with old vines of Abouriou, Cot, Fer, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Gris.  In a world where the South West struggles to survive next to the big guns of Bordeaux, buying a property in the Marmandais was a bold move but it wasn’t enough of a challenge for Stephanie so she decided to convert the vineyard to biodynamics. She quickly saw a change; the vines started to look healthier and gave fruit of much better quality, sweeter, more intense and complex. Happy with the results she set out to carry on the good work in the cellar where she now takes a back seat and let nature do its job, intervening as little as possible and reducing the use of chemicals to the strict minimum. She uses barely a pinch of sulphur at bottling and that’s it.

Unfortunately I haven’t tried the reds from the Château but I’ve had the chance to taste their 100% Sauvignon Gris on three different occasions and have never been disappointed. Sauvignon Gris, a pink-skinned mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, is an old and traditional grape of Bordeaux but fell out of favour due to its low yields. However, having slipped under most winemakers’ radars for the best part of 40 years, it is enjoying a bit of a revival, notably in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley but also in Chile. Not quite as aromatically pungent as its famous cousin, it has higher sugar levels and tends to produce fuller bodied wines but with the same sort of sharpness.

I have not tried any Sauvignon Gris apart from this one but, if this example is anything to go by, I would recommend everyone to rush out and get their hands on it. It’s absolutely beautiful! The nose bursts with fresh peaches, apricot and a sort of guarrigue like character where lavender and dried herbs come together. The palate is quite rich and silky, almost reminiscent of a Meursault due to the fat and slight savouriness of the mid-palate but there’s also a fresh mineral note that brings everything alive and carries the wine through to a long and mouthwatering finish. So lovely, I could drink it all day.

I should probably warn people though, this wine being what we call a “natural wine”, it needs a bit of tender love and care. First of all it’s definitely not bright and clear, it’s slightly hazy and the colour veers towards the light orange of an apricot. Second of all, for reasons that I won’t bore you with, the wine is ever so slightly reduced on opening and needs to breathe for a while before it gives everything away. I would recommend decanting it for a good hour before drinking. I know it’s all a bit tedious and we’re not all prepared to go through such hard work every day, but those of us who will will be greatly rewarded, believe me.

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Scallops with bacon, fricasse of summer vegetables and breadcrumbs

By Paul Hannagen | Published: April 7, 2011

Scallop

Hello again. I recently tasted a new addition to our Loire section, Domaine Gerard Morin Sancerre 2010. Beautifully crisp and aromatic, with high acidity and light to medium body, a very herbaceous nose with the minerality and citrus fruit one would expect from a good Sancerre, it wasn’t long until I came up with a dish to showcase this beautiful wine.

The dish which I have chosen to match this wine with is delicate and the secret to its  success is accuracy. By this I mean being very careful with the control of cooking times and seasonings.

Ingredients (for two)
For the scallops:
6 hand dived queen scallops, coral off
Vegetable oil
Salt mixed with equal amount of Sharwoods Curry powder

For the pea puree:
250g Birdseye frozen peas
knob of butter
seasoning

For the fricassee of summer vegetables:
100g asparagus, end stems snapped off and cut diagonally
100g Birdseye frozen peas
100g broad beans popped out of pods
100g sugar snaps, tailed and wirey spine taken out
100g green beans, topped, tailed and cut into thirds
Olive oil
Tarragon or white wine vinegar
Chives, finely chopped
Tarragon,finely chopped
40 ml cream

For the bacon crisps:
4 slices of thinly cut Alsace, pancetta or other streaky bacon

For the herb breadcrumbs
100g breadcrumbs
1/4 chopped chilli
1/2 chopped clove of garlic
Chopped herbs such as chives, tarragon, parsley chervil
Olive oil

Pea shoots and chervil tips to garnish.

Method
I know that this recipe might look a bit daunting, due in part to the number of ingredients, but honestly it is quite easy and an absolute stunner. Much of it can be prepared ahead of time and literally finished at the last minute .

First prepare the fricassee. A fricassee is a classic French white meat stew made with cream, chicken stock and without browning the meat prior to stewing. We’re putting a little Roberson twist on things . . . making it with vegetables.

To a large pan of boiling salted water add the asparagus. One minute later add the green beans. Two minutes later add the peas, sugar snaps and podded broad beans. Cook for a further two minutes. Strain through a colander and refresh in iced water.

Heat an oven to 180 degrees. Place the bacon slices on greaseproof paper on a tray. Place another piece of greaseproof paper on top followed by another tray. This stops the bacon from curling up . Bake for five minutes and then check every minute after. The crisps will go from pale to burnt in seconds. When cooked take out and reserve. They will get harder as they cool.

For the pea puree, add the peas to the pot of boiling water and blanch for two-and-a-half minutes. Transfer to a blender, add the butter and blitz for ten minutes, scraping down the sides occasionally until the puree is silky smooth . Season to taste.

For the breadcrumbs combine all the ingredients except the olive oil and herbs in a pan over a medium heat. Add enough olive oil to moisten the crumbs all the way through. Toast over a medium heat until evenly coloured all over. Season with salt and pepper and add the herbs while still warm. This is a quick versatile garnish which will keep for a week or two wrapped in a dry place.

To assemble
Add the vegetables for the fricassee to the pan and heat with a dash of olive oil and cream. Season with the herbs, salt, pepper and spike with the vinegar. Keep warm.

Heat the bacon crisps briefly in the oven and place one on the bottom of a warmed plate.

Heat a heavy based frying pan with a good glug of oil. It is important to put in more oil than you think is necessary to maintain a high temperature. When the scallops are added to the pan the temperature drops and instead of crisping up, they can boil in their own juices and become rubbery. By maintaining a high temperature and cooking the scallops quickly you get a golden brown crust and beautiful translucency in the centre

Season the scallops with the curry salt and fry in a very hot pan quickly for 1 and a half minutes on each side until caramelised and slightly translucent in the middle.

Meanwhile heat the pea puree briefly and place a 3 large dots on the bacon crisp. Put the scallops on top of the pea puree and cover with the other bacon crisp.

Top with the seasoned fricassee and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Garnish with pea shoots and chervil tips.

Serve with the well chilled Morin Sancerre 2010 and enjoy!

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