On the 1st February, Joe (the retail manager) and I were cordially invited by LVMH to a trade tasting of the new and much anticipated release of the Dom Pérignon 2003 held at the Phillips de Pury & Company auction house/art exhibition hall.
Unlike the official launch held on the 7th December 2011 where the Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy spoke from his base in Epernay yet simultaneously appearing as a holographic effigy in London, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Paris and New York, this was a more intimate affair with the man himself.
Entering the great white expanse of the exhibition room and being faced with only a Riedel Chianti/Riesling tasting glass, water tumbler and leather notebook you knew immediately that this was a deliberate ploy to mitigate all unnecessary distraction and for us to focus on nothing more than the great Champagne itself – unfortunately this tactic failed on Joe, as he leaned over during the course of Richard Geoffroy’s monologue with the question, “Don’t you think these white tables would look great in Roberson’s tasting room?”
Richard Geoffroy, the face behind Dom Pérignon is certainly a perfectionist and a man that knows his own mind. As chief winemaker he has the indelible task of placing his own stamp on what he feels is the true expression of Dom Perignon – a job not for the faint hearted. The vintage of 2003 was a difficult year in Champagne and almost every viticultural region in Europe due to the serious heat and lack of water during the summer months. In a marginal climate such as Champagne where only a limited amount of exposure to sun and heat is required to ripen the grapes and to retain the acidity, this brought about serious problems and potentially dire consequences. However, following the other warm vintages of 1947, 59 and 76 that have strangely stood the test of time and brought about great Champagnes, the challenge to make another great vintage was embraced by Richard and looks sets to be another legend in the making.
At no moment in time was there any question of giving up. Instead, we embraced the challenge presented by such extreme conditions and seized the opportunity for Dom Pérignon to sign this Vintage … Everyone was expecting a very powerful, sun-filled and rapidly maturing wine. A real challenge for the creation of Dom Pérignon. I needed to interpret it differently. It was a risk, a push-back of the boundaries, which may be rewarded now.
After the initial briefing we were split into 4 groups and chaperoned into a darkened side hall where we were greeted each by our own sommelier. Here we would embark on a 4 dish taster menu designed by Richard himself, with each course being accompanied by a four stage light show in perfect synchronicity to each dish presented. The idea that the wine can be broken down into 4 colours; white, yellow, red and black went way over my head. It only served to made Joe and myself a little queasy half way through, but it somehow resonated with other people around us.
The Champagne was paired with a variety of intriguing dishes – from a soft boiled and sweetly seasoned salted egg with the albumen removed, to saffron and Parmesan risotto, to caviar with hibiscus jelly to foie gras covered in Mexican mole. Strangely each dish managed to hold its own and showed astonishing versatility.
The official Dom Perignon line of thought on the nose and palate is as followed:
Nose: The bouquet spirals through a light-filled, floral softness to the gritty minerality that epitomises Dom Pérignon, evocative of candied fruit, plant life and exquisite camphor leaf freshness, and finally plunges into darkness, spices and liquorice root.
Taste: At this stage, the wine still has a physical presence. It is striking and demanding, tactile and vibrant rather than aromatic. It is built on rhythm and rupture more than harmony. After an initial cloud of softness, we hit a mineralised verticality that gradually opens out to suggest a bitter, iodised and saline nobility.
For me the 2003 presented light smokiness with almond, bread and citrus notes on the nose. The mousse dissipates quickly but leaves a comforting series of beads. Though bigger and more powerful in style than the 2002 the wine somehow still manages to show restrained elegance on the finish – certainly a keeper.
P.S – and yes Joe, the white tables would be great for our tasting room at Roberson!
Three of the Best – New Wines at Roberson
January and February is always an exciting time in the shop. There are portfolio tastings being held, new wines arriving, and this year there was also the much anticipated launch of Dom Perignon 2003 that my colleagues were lucky enough to attend. To help guide you through all this excitement, here I’m going to take a quick look at three of the best new wines to come in recently.
Bone Jolly 2009 – A new wine really gracing the Roberson shelves. A Gamay made without using carbonic maceration, this has everything you would expect flavour-wise from this fresh, juicy variety without the confected character that sometimes comes with it. A lovely ruby-red, with a very fresh nose of violets, raspberry, a little pepper and a faint but pleasant farmyard character. Flavours are focussed, penetrating, and persistent, and the wine has a beautiful texture and length, with a faintly salty note. Mouth-watering and fun to drink with enough complexity to keep interesting. This is bound to provoke considerable jolliness especially at a bargain price of £16.95! Be warned though, this wine is made in very small quantities and there is a limited supply, so be quick.
Château Bouscassé Madiran 1999 – Château Bouscassé is one of a number of properties owned by Madiran’s Alain Brumont, the most significant other being Château Montus. Brumont has emerged as the shining light of Madiran, really putting the appellation on the map with his combination of innovative techniques and traditional methods learned in Bordeaux. The Bouscassé 1999 is predominantly Tannat with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blended in to help round the wine. This is a wine designed for cellaring, so 12 years on it is just approaching its drinking window. It has an opaque black colour, a reticent but intriguing bouquet of spicy new oak, smoke, vanilla, and black-cherries, great concentration and richness, medium to full body, and plenty of tannin in the finish.
Knoll Loibenberg Federspiel Riesling 2004 – One of Austria’s most notable producers has now landed on our shelves for the first time. This Riesling from winemakers Emmerich II and Monika Knoll and their son Emmerich III is made from vines planted in the famous Unterloiben vineyard (which is also home to Gruner Vetliner, Rivaner and Pinot Noir). Here is what Bobby P [editor’s note: Robert Parker] had to say about it, ‘Knoll’s 2004 Riesling collection included some refreshing and not uninteresting, yet still only marginally ripely-flavoured offerings. The first to really distinguish itself, still in cask, was the 2004 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg with aromas suggestive of blueberries, cress, nut oils and flowers. Relatively light and lean on the palate, this nonetheless displays a pure, long finish with considerable refinement of floral, herbal, berry and white peach flavours, plus underlying suggestions of toasted nuts and saline minerality.’
All in all there is a fantastic array of new offerings available now at Roberson. This is only the tip of the iceberg, we’ve got more arriving every day, so feel free to get involved and pick up a tasty bottle at an even tastier price.