The Latest from Roberson

Thoughts on wine and other topics from the Roberson team

Paul w

Paul Williamson

Sassicaia 2014

This week the latest vintage of one of Italy’s most iconic wines was released, and while it is not a blockbuster vintage, the 2014 Sassicaia is not to be overlooked. Although Tuscany does have to deal with some vintage variation it is not as extreme as the likes of Bordeaux, and the Tenuta San Guido stable produce thoroughbreds year on year. The story of Sassicaia is the story of the immutable passion and dedication of proprietor Mario Incisa della Rocchetta. It was his vision that spearheaded the abandonment of the draconian Chianti DOC rules and the use of international grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Mario started his experiments as far back as the 40's and, with a half century of perfecting their craft, Sassicaia remains the original and best 'super-Tuscan'. The name Sassicaia derives from the Italian word 'sasso' for stone. This is a nod to the discovery by Mario that the terrain of Bolgheri was not too dissimilar to that of the 'graves' or gravel of the great Bordeaux estates. The Cabernet was a success in the Tuscan soil and climate, achieving a pure expression of the grape that rewarded patient cellaring. Despite an initial reluctance to release the wines to the general public, in 1968 the first official vintage of Sassicaia hit the market and the world took note. At the official launch this week the new release 2014 vintage was tasted alongside the 2002 for comparison - that vintage apparently having similar qualities to 2014. The 2002 was tasting magnificently - polished, elegant and beautifully complex. It bodes very well for the future of the latest release. Sassicaia is a wine which transcends vintage variation. You will never have a bad one. It is always a good bet to pick it up on release as once it hits the shelves and begins to be consumed the price tends to increase. We have limited availability of the 2014 vintage but if you would like to make a purchase please email us.



Ben Greene

Exiting Dry January

How has your Dry January been? I stopped drinking a couple of hours into New Year's Day and I have to say, I've never felt better. I am radiating self-satisfaction. Of course, my professional obligations meant I had to make some exceptions. Wine, for example. And because I am unfortunate enough to live in a hard water area, beer is necessary for hydration. Then there was the Roberson Christmas party, which always takes place in January, and a handful of other special events - lunch, Sunday, the successful delivery of a new dishwasher - that sort of thing. Overall, it's been tough, but the good news is it's over, and unlike last year when we all had to cram half a year's alcohol consumption into just ten days, this year we've got four full weeks until Lent starts on the 1st of March. After a period of abstinence, the first glass always tastes much better then usual. Your brain has almost forgotten how delicious wine is and is surprised and delighted to rediscover it. So make it a good wine - it will never taste better. I'm going for something by Marcel Deiss. These Alsace wines have such crystal clarity, beautiful balance and piercing flavours, they're the perfect way to jolt you into the new wine year.



Max Margaritoff

On Comedy and Wine with NATYS creator Roland Muldoon

Roberson Wine is sponsoring the 30th edition of New Acts of the Year awards (NATYS) on Saturday 29th January, and Max took the opportunity to interview NATYS’ creator Roland Muldoon on comedy and wine. Max: Tell us a little bit about the New Acts of the Year (NATYS), what can people expect from this year’s event? Roland: We are the longest running live comedy event in the country. The entire idea of the NATYS is to keep comedy live, give young talent a break and, of course, to make the audience laugh. Essentially we want to keep live entertainment alive, and that is where our emphasis is. We will put on a great comedy show, with everything from stand-up and sketches to magic and music that people can watch while having a glass of wine. Last year the 14 acts were outstanding, but this year they are even better! Max: The Guardian once called it “the most important new Comedy showcase of the country!” How important is comedy in everyday life? Roland: Really important! Not just because we all need a good laugh once in a while. Comedy is extremely varied and every artist has their own idea, style and reason behind their comedy act. A little bit like in wine, where every winemaker and wine is unique, and different. But comedy is also a voice of progressive thinking. Comedians can ask important questions, tell anecdotes and stories or ask questions about the big stuff or the everyday. It is important to have pertinent material and make people think and laugh about topics at the same time. However, at the end of the day we want everyone to have a bloody good time out! Max: There is a long friendship between Cliff Roberson and yourself, and he has been a long-time fan of NATYS. Where do you see the connection between comedy and wine? Roland: Our focus is to get people to come together and have a good time. We want to see people laugh, discuss and interact with each other and the material they get. Wine is a very social thing as well. Why would you want to sit at home and watch a rehearsed, sometimes censored comedy show on TV or YouTube, if you can go out with your friends and watch new and exciting acts? It is far more fun to see fresh talent that you haven’t heard of yet but who will give you a lot for your money! Apart from me enjoying a glass of wine at a comedy show more than anywhere else, wine is very much the same. You don’t want the same old wine you find in supermarkets; neither do you want to drink all alone by yourself at home. You want something exciting and new at a good venue with some of your best friends and family! Max: We tour Europe looking for new winemaker talents, undiscovered wines and regions, and trying to introduce something exciting and different to our UK markets. You essentially do the same, just with comedians. What are the current trends in comedy? Roland: To be fair we are more interested in performances than trends in comedy. Comedy will always reflect what is happening in the real world, what the current topics and debates are, and how comedy is consumed. But comedy is more than Gender, Brexit and Trump jokes. Everyone has their own angle. Sometimes it is also good to counter a trend or topic. NATYS for example is one of the most active and vocal in bringing back and encouraging live acts, as opposed to recorded comedy on TV. If you pinned me down on a trend I would probably say that comedy is not just a political theatre, but that there is a trend towards escapism now too. People are happy to not always get bombarded with political humour. Max: Many people still perceive wine as conservative, stuck-up and a little bit boring. Do you think there should be more humour in wine? Roland: I never understood that, after all Bacchus was a fat old bloke dripping with happiness. There is too much joy in a good bottle of wine that is being shared with your friends for it to be taken all too serious. This is another reason why NATYS’ comedic counter culture works so well with Roberson Wine’s ‘wine over the counter’ culture. Perhaps it will start to lighten up some of the more conservative wine folks. Generally speaking, however, I don’t think wine culture is too conservative or boring at all. As I said, I had some of the greatest times with friends and a bottle of wine around. And Cliff is probably the best example that wine can be entertaining and different! He is excited by life and always makes me laugh. That is partly why we are good friends now! NATYS: Roberson Wine Top of the Bill variety event will be held on Sunday 29 January 2:30pm @ Leicester Square Theatre . Tickets can be purchased at Leicester Square Theatre's website or by phoning the box office on 020 7734 2222.



Max Margaritoff

Comedy and Wine: We’re having a laugh

There really isn’t any better way than to start the New Year with a bottle of wine and a good laugh! Roberson Wine is sponsoring the 30th edition of New Acts of the Year awards (NATYS) on Saturday 29th January, a show The Guardian called “the most important new comedy showcase in the country.” The partnership between Roberson Wine and NATYS stems from a long friendship between Cliff Roberson and NATYS’ Roland Muldoon. In 1986 Roland was responsible for restoring and reviving the iconic Hackney Empire, which he then ran successfully for 20 years. Home to performances of Charlie Chaplin and Louis Armstrong, Roland with the help of his friends including Cliff, restored the venue which became a stepping stone for some of the UK’s greatest comedic artists. It was just a matter of time before Cliff Roberson and Roland Muldoon would come together again, and this year’s legendary NATYS: Roberson Wine top of the Bill is the perfect occasion. Wine and comedy, for Cliff, is not an unusual combination either: “Wine and comedy is not as weird as it first appears. The NATYS look for talented performers with a distinct voice. We do pretty much the same thing. We specialise in small talented wine producers with big stories and a strong sense of identity.” 14 of the best new acts, selected from over 100 auditions, will each perform a five-minute act at Leicester Square Theatre in the heart of London. The show, presented by comedy veteran Arthur Smith, will have a diverse range of acts including classic stand up, short sketches, visual, physical and musical comedy. Previous contestants include Harry Hill, Gina Yashere, Jack Whitehall, Henning When, Nina Conti, Russel Brand and last year’s winner Bilal Zafar. NATYS: Roberson Wine Top of the Bill variety event will be held on Sunday 29 January 2:30pm @ Leicester Square Theatre. Tickets can be purchased at Leicester Square Theatre's website or by phoning the box office on 020 7734 2222.



Max Margaritoff

Your Top Ten Champagne Questions Answered

Just in time for Christmas, Max answers ten common questions about the most celebratory wine of all... 1. Why does some Champagne show the vintage while some does not? Very often you find so called non-vintage Champagne (NV). A non-vintage Champagne is made from a blend of wine that comes from different years. The advantage is that the winemaker can ensure, through blending, that taste and aroma is consistent over the years. It gives the Champagne house its unique style. The grapes for a vintage Champagne, on the other hand, come only from one year’s harvest. Vintage Champagne is also made only in good years, as no other wines can be blended in - improving the quality. 2. How should I store my Champagne? The same as other wines that you buy. The most important things are light and temperature. Make sure that the wine is kept in a cool, slightly humid place, and always away from bright light. If possible lay the bottle down horizontally, which keeps the cork moist and prevents it from drying out and turning brittle. 3. How long can I keep an open bottle of Champagne at home? Hopefully you never have to encounter a moment in which you are faced with the dilemma of not finishing your Champagne. If you do, then make sure you seal the bottle with a Champagne stopper (or anything else that might be of help). Place it in the fridge and it should last you anywhere between 3-5 days before going flat. 4. Does Champagne go well with food? Yes! Think of Champagne as your all-day wine companion. If you haven’t had a Champagne breakfast yet then it is time you do. Champagne goes great with Eggs Benedict for example. If you like sushi and don’t want to drink sake, then Champagne is an ideal alternative, and of course there is the all-time classic pairing option of Champagne and Oysters Rockefeller. Champagne is extremely versatile and exciting, and as with any other wine you should always experiment a little. You will be surprised at how many unexpected wine and food pairings there are. I personally love to drink vintage Champagne with grilled chicken. 5. I don’t have any Champagne flutes at home, what do I do? First of all: don’t worry! Champagne flutes are an obvious (and admittedly beautiful) choice for Champagne, but not essential. These flutes showcase the fine bubbles better than any other glass, and preserve them better as well. However, many sommeliers and Champagne houses prefer using wider glasses for their Champagne. Use a white wine glass, or for older vintage Champagnes a wide Burgundy glass. Remember, at the end of the day Champagne is a wine. 6. What does ‘grower Champagne’ mean? Most Champagne we find in the UK is made by a larger ‘Champagne house’, who produce hundreds of thousands of bottles, sometimes even millions of bottles. Often these so called ‘Grandes Marques’ are of very good quality, but just not as personal as the grower Champagnes that we sell, for example, at Roberson. Grower Champagne means that the grape growers make and sell their own Champagne. Quantities are much smaller, often the grapes are picked by hand, and it is easier to find out exactly how and where the wines were made. At Roberson we have decided to focus on those smaller, high quality grower Champagnes with a great reputation, such as Egly-Ouriet and Arteis. 7. How do I open a bottle of Champagne? First loosen the cage. Always remember to point the bottle away from people and yourself (you do not want to experience the force of a Champagne cork). Next, hold the bottle at a 45° angle and start to rotate the base of the bottle while holding the cork and cage firmly until the pressure of the wine begins to push the cork out. 8. What is the difference between Champagne and other sparkling wine like Prosecco or Cava? The short answer is that for a wine to be called Champagne, it has to come from the region of Champagne in France. In addition, the only grapes that are allowed during production of the wine are Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (both red grape varieties), as well as Chardonnay (a white variety). Most are a blend of all three grapes, however if you see ‘Blanc de Blancs’ on the label, the wine is made 100% from Chardonnay. ‘Blanc de Noir’, on the other hand, means that the wine is made entirely from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or a blend of the two. Finally, Champagne is always produced using the Méthode Champenoise. The main aspect is that in the Méthode Champenoise more yeast and sugar is added to the bottled wine, which leads to a second fermentation. The yeast slowly dries, forming a sediment called lees, which the wine rests on and develops its typical aromas of brioche and biscuit, while still having aromas of lemon, apple or strawberry. The bottle is gradually tipped and spun, so that the lees are collected at the bottle neck. Once the bottle is flash-frozen and the lees are popped out during in the process, the wine is sealed and ready to be aged and then eventually drunk. 9. Is all Champagne the same? No! There are several different styles of Champagne. Apart from vintage and grower differences, the wine can, as explained earlier, be a single grape variety or a blend between Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Besides the usual Champagne you can also find rosé Champagne. These usually have soft aromas of strawberries and are a little fruitier. Finally the designation ‘Brut’, indicating that a wine is dry, can be replaced by ‘Extra Brut’ and ‘Brut Nature’, which means that they are even drier (see some of the Egly-Ouriet we carry). On the other hand ‘Demi-Sec’ and ‘Sec’ indicate that the Champagne is semi sweet or sweet. These wines are fantastic food pairing options for spicier courses and dessert. 10. What is the best way to drink Champagne? The ideal serving temperature for Champagne is 8 – 10°C and is consumed best on special occasions such as Christmas, New Year, anniversaries or simply with your friends and family. The more we think about it - virtually any occasion can call for a glass of Champagne.



Lee Talbot

Changing Tastes in 25 Years of Fine Wine

We're celebrating Roberson Wine's 25th anniversary this week with a series of blog posts. In this post, Lee looks at how Fine Wine has evolved over the last 25 years. As it’s Roberson Wine’s 25th anniversary, I thought it would be interesting to take a brief look back and see how tastes have changed in Fine Wine over the last quarter century. 25 years may seem like an eternity to some, but in the world of Fine Wine this isn’t always the case. If you think that some wines are bought with the intention of being aged, tucked away and almost forgotten in a warehouse or a dark cellar for 25 years before they come to see the light of day, it puts things in a different perspective. You can’t talk about recent decades in Fine Wine without mentioning the enormous effect of critic Robert Parker. Parker is responsible for the proliferation of the point rating system; his 100 point scale causing huge fluctuations in prices, with a ‘perfect’ 100 score prompting the value of a wine to skyrocket. His influence spread to growers and producers alike, who saw his scores as an easy route to high prices and easy sales. Consequently, the 1990’s and early 00’s were in part saturated by hugely ripe, oaky, powerful and very high alcohol red wines as per the supposed preference of Parker. Vineyards the world over – but especially seen in California, Australia and South America – were uprooting local grapes in favour of the popular French varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay that dominated the market (I’m sure most of you will have gone through the ABC, Anything But Chardonnay phase at one point or another). We have since seen a ‘counter-movement’ to a lighter, more expressive and refreshing style, where geographical influences and terroir driven wines are increasingly important to the tech-savvy, environmentally engaged ‘Millennial’ drinker who places more weight on the story of a wine and its vineyard, rather than just its winemaking techniques. Indigenous, rather than purely international grapes are again growing in popularity. California has emerged as one of the world’s great wine producing regions. Cult wines in California such as Sine Qua Non and Screaming Eagle, able to boast some of the highest prices in the world, have become a staple part of the Fine Wine market in the last 25 years. These ‘cult’ wines tend to be very big, tannic and high alcohol wines - akin to some of Parker’s preferences perhaps - some with strong Bordelais roots and influences such as Opus One - founded by Robert Mondavi and Baron Rothschild who recognised the region’s great winemaking potential. California has experienced a very quick evolution in terms of its winemaking style. While still young in regional terms, many producers wanted to take a step away from the 15+% alcohol Cabernet Sauvignon’s of 20 years ago, towards a ‘new wave’ California Fine Wine. Pinot Noir and Syrah are again rightfully finding their place in the Fine Wine market, as more elegant wines are being grown from the cooler climate areas of California in this ‘new wave’ revolution. Elsewhere in the last 25 years we have seen both the emergence and diminution of the Super Tuscans as key Fine Wines. In the early 2000’s the Super Tuscan brand became diluted by too many producers jumping on the new bandwagon, devaluing the brand. However the likes of Masseto, Ornellaia and Sassicaia are still some of the most sought-after wines on the market. All that being said and done, looking at the very top of the Fine Wine market in the last 25 years, we still see the same familiar French faces – the Bordeaux First Growths and the likes of Pétrus, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Cheval Blanc (to name a few) dominate. Burgundian wines are now more popular than ever. With huge demand for top vintages and with Asian pallets maturing, their terroir focused wines and more delicate style are highly coveted. However this growing demand, coupled with the short supply, has driven prices up drastically in recent years. Despite the mini-revolution we see in California, South Africa, Australia and other wine producing regions around the world, it still remains the ‘traditional’ wines that drive the Fine Wine market; the pinnacle of the Bordeaux classification still provides that assurance of quality and leads the way in the market. After the market crash in 2008, the growing Asian interest in Fine Wine helped pull the market out of recession. Bordeaux wines are seen as very prestigious in the East, and completely dominate the growing Asian market. While it is exciting to see this new breed of winemaker pushing the boundaries with modern winemaking, when it comes to the world’s most expensive and traded wines the traditional regions still dominate. Tastes in Fine Wine have changed over the last 25 years, but slowly. Much like the wines themselves, peoples tastes have gradually matured in bottle, developed new flavours, changed nuances and characteristics, but have still maintained their roots and traditions. Tastes are broadening however, and while traditional wines still dominate, people are questioning the status quo more and more. On an interesting side note, while Roberson Wine celebrated its 25th anniversary on November 25th, I was celebrating my 25th birthday the day after. Parties all round then!


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