Bring Your Own Etiquette

A Bring Your Own Free-for-All

Over many years spent working as a sommelier I definitely saw a rise in requests to bring your own wine to restaurants. It is not only a response to harder times – if you have a good bottle nothing you cook at home will do it justice (at least not if you cook like I do).

Many restaurants welcome B.Y.O. and will charge you a corkage fee. Fair enough – this goes towards the glasses you drink the wine from, the sommelier decanting (if necessary) and serving the wine and all the other frills associated with dining out.

So in my personal experience of B.Y.O. as a customer and of accommodating it on the other side of the fence, here are a couple of tips on the do’s and don’ts (and yes, the don’ts, have all actually happened).

 

DON’T:

  • Sit down at your table and immediately pull out as many bottles as you would like to drink as and when you feel like them.
  • Bring a £10 bottle of Jacob’s Creek.
  • Agree to bring one bottle, show up with a magnum and only expect to pay single bottle corkage.

DO:

  • Call up beforehand and let the restaurant know you would like to bring some wine. If they allow B.Y.O., tell them how many bottles you’re intending to bring  - some places may only allow one per table.
  • Offer the sommelier a small taste of the wine. It will most likely be something they have not have tasted before and any opportunity to taste something new is great!
  • Bring a wine that excites you. Most people do B.Y.O. to commemorate a special occasion, so make it a memorable bottle.

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The Longest Marathon in the World

The Marathon de Medoc

Putting two good things together doesn’t always make something better. Like Frank Lampard and Steven Gerarrd in central midfield, there are some combinations that just don’t work.  I remember the time I mixed my two favourite drinks as a twelve year old – milk and apple juice. I poured it down the sink. But, sometimes, two things that seem like they would be disastrously dangerous together can make something great – a combination so left-field it brings a smile just thinking about it.

Last weekend, Marc and I joined nearly 8,000 other runners in the peculiarly eccentric, very French and truly brilliant Marathon de Medoc, where the route encompasses nearly 20 stops for wine, cheese, fruit, oysters, steak and ice-cream.  Running this race has long been a dream of mine, and it has it’s own particular mythology amongst those who have done it.

After months of ‘training’, weeks of worrying about whether we’d done enough training, and, erm, days of abstinence from wine, we reached Pauillac on Saturday morning, about half an hour before the start.

Marc Ditcham on the Marathon de Medoc
The closer we got to the start, the louder the noise, the crazier the outfits, the more enthusiastic the spectators. There were Japanese dressed as samurai, Scots in kilts, a lot of caveman, and one guy with a tiny flesh-coloured thong. Not sure what he was going as. Marc and I, as serious runners, were kitted out in the latest gear which, in retrospect, made our woeful performance even more embarrassing. No-one wants to be the kid with all the gear but none of the skill. For an idea of the atmosphere, check out this video.

The first hour-and-a-half saw us run south through the two Pichons, heading down to St-Julien with Anthony and Lillian Barton waving the runners on from a bench outside Langoa Barton, all the way down to the stunning Beychevelle where we turned and made our way north. It was beautiful and we were feeling fresh. I remember we passed a farmer and his 5 year old daughter who were picking tomatoes. Not part of the organisation in any way, this quiet old man and his daughter offered the passing runners some of their harvest, I was surprised Marc didn’t grab a few for later.

As we headed back up north through Pauillac again, we passed Lafite, Mouton and Grand-Puy-Ducasse, nibbling and sipping as we went.

The heat was certainly taking its toll. I’d drunk about four litres of water by this point and Marc, well, Marc was eating quite a lot. Like a bottle of English Dornfelder laid down in the cellar, we were really starting to flag by the twenty mile mark. Marc and I separated and the only thing on the mind was finishing. We were looking ragged. Really ragged. As we limped, hobbled and jogged at a pace slower than a brisk walk, we were overtaken by emus, mice and other such creatures.

Resting on the Marathon de Medoc

Still, it had to end. And it did. Eventually.  Five hours later we passed the line, in a time that neither of us would be proud of.

Running a marathon slower than Al-Gore did gives one a certain sense of humility (as well as a new appreciation for Mr Gore) and doesn’t dampen in any way the memory of an amazing day in the Medoc.

And, you know, it was a timely reminder that Bordeaux isn’t just about historic properties, Chinese Yuan, First Growths, consultants and investment wines. It is also about humour, charity, drinking, camaraderie and fun. And, like I said, odd things that sometimes do go together.

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The Indecipherable and Unfamiliar – Wine Lists Worth Cherishing

What? Who? And, more to the point, why?

When you have been working in wine for a while, or have an enthusiastic interest, you can usually decipher a restaurant list pretty quickly.  While most well-adjusted diners have made a quick choice, you’re scrutinising it for the hidden value that never appears, making a guess as to the suppliers of the wines and generally making a decision about what to drink and the quality of the list. You will also expect to recognise, if not all of the wines, at least the majority.

But what if you don’t recognise any of the wines? Any of them? Well, you are left with a few options, the most logical being asking for a bit of a hand from the proprietor or sommerlier.

But do you like it? Do you like not knowing which way is up? A recent column by Steve Cuozzo, the restaurant critic for the New York Post, entitled ‘Sour Grapes’, took aim at restaurants for producing wine lists on which he didn’t recognise a single bottle. Bar Boulud, on the other hand was held up as an example of a well-chosen list. A host of bloggers and readers responded accusing him of ignorance and other crimes against wine. Yet, it’s a question worth asking: ‘Should restaurants offer something for everyone?’

Er… no. People don’t offer ‘something for everyone’, food doesn’t offer it, neither does life, and that is all part of the fun.

The appeal of many the most exciting places in the London restaurant scene right now is that they have their own very distinct identity, from Meateasy  to Ten Bells. Having a wine list that reflects that identity, however obscure, is surely something worth cherishing. What could be more depressing then seeing the same wines on the same lists all over the world? In a world where icons of consumerism are seemingly converging, from Lafite to Prada to Ferrari, a bit of uncertainty, individuality and indecipherable Greek wine can only be a good thing.

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A Visit to Oban and How Whisky is Made

The Oban Scotch Whisky Distillery

A trip to Scotland is not complete without a visit to one of the many whisky distilleries distributed throughout the country, so it should come as no surprise to hear that I found myself at the door of the Oban distillery on a recent holiday to the North.

Sharing its name with that of the town where it is located (which is commonly referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Isles’) Oban lies on the south-west coast of Scotland. Being one of the the oldest distilleries in Scotland, Oban has played an important part in the town’s history and is a dominant feature on the quayside. With its black and white brickwork complete with stone chimney the building exudes Celtic charm and, even if it were not for for the treasure inside, would still manage to generate intrigue. Fortunately the distillery manages to deliver on both counts. Proving an equally popular destination for bewildered tourists with money to burn and whisky connoisseurs looking to tick off the yet another box in their quest for ‘distillery domination’ the building is a hive of activity. With my WSET spirits exam looming it was a fine opportunity to take the tour and brush up on my knowledge of whisky production. Here follows a summary of the key points…

Firstly, the main rules that define what makes Scotch Whisky are as follows:

  • It must be made at a Scottish distillery using water and malted barley.
  • It must spend at least three years maturing in oak casks.
  • The whisky must be matured in Scotland.

And now to the ingredients and the process itself:

Main Ingredients 
Water. The softer the water the better. Malted barley will absorb more soft water than hard water. In Scotland soft water is common.
Malt. Malted barley or ‘malt’ must be used in all Scottish malt whisky. Grain or maize can be used to make whisky but it is a cheaper alternative.
Yeast. Used to trigger the chemical process that converts sugars in the malted barley into alcohol.
Peat. Peat is basically decayed vegetation. It adds a smoky flavour to whisky which is usually associated with, but not exclusive to, island malts.

Step 1 – Malting
Once the barley has arrived at the distillery it is steeped in water to allow the germination process to begin. Before the germination can go too far it is heated in a kiln to halt the process. It is at this stage that peat is used to introduce its flavour. The malting process can take between 20 and 48 hours. From here the malt will be ground down, or milled, ready for mashing.

Step 2 – Mashing
Warm water is added to the malted barley which is then fed into a large, circular vessel called a mash-tun. Mashing is the stage where the starches in the barley convert to sugars which will later be fermented into alcohol. The mash-tun will contain either mechanical rakes or rotating blades that stir the mash. Slots in the base of the mash-tun allow the now sugary liquid, called ‘wort’, to run off before it is allowed to ferment.

Step 3 – Fermentation 
In a device called a wash-back the wort has yeast added to it to encourage the chemical reaction that converts the sugars to alcohol. Washbacks were traditionally made of wood (imparting flavour), although some distilleries now use stainless steel.

Step 4 – Distillation
Scottish whisky distilleries use pot-stills (usually copper) to distill the spirit. Pot-stills offer a means of evaporating the alcohol, which turns to vapour before water does, which is then condensed and collected after escaping through the neck of the still.The liquid will typically be distilled twice, first in a larger ‘wash’ still, then in a ‘spirit’ still in order to collect the ‘heart of the run’ which is deemed the best spirit for maturation.

Step 5 Maturation 
Scotch whisky is always matured in old oak casks, usually sourced from America (old Bourbon casks) or Spain. Some distilleries will mature in a second barrel to add a different edge to the whisky, for example using casks from Madeira and Port. Three years is the legal minimum but most will spend much longer. When the distillery sees fit, the whisky will be bottled.

And finally, a couple of tasting notes from my visit:

Oban 14 yr old:
The flagship Whisky of Oban. A delicious mellow whisky that showcases citrus notes, particulary orange zest. Sea-salt and peaty smokiness.
The finish is of good length with fruit and dry oak.

Oban 1996 ‘The Distillers Edition’:
Partly matured in Montilla fino casks and released as a special Distillers Edition. The Whisky is rich and smooth with notes of chocolate, dried fruit and the salty tang prevelant in all Oban Whisky.

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Winning at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2012

Roberson Wine win Decanter's 2012 London Wine Merchant of the Year Award

With suit pressed, shoes polished, 2 x Decanter World Wine Awards invites in hand, the promise of a Champagne reception, trophy-winning wine, great company, great food and the possibility of winning the Best London Wine Merchant title, it had all the makings of a perfect evening. Unfortunately, my date was not a beautiful trophy wife such as might adorn the arm of a gentleman at the GQ awards, but a bearded Mancunian by the name of Mark Andrew, Senior Wine Buyer for Roberson (only joking Mark).

The event was held at the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden and was a star-studded affair, with every area of the wine world represented. It was a who’s who of the wine trade, and everyone was there for one reason: to see if their red wine, white wine, fortified wine, sparkly, independent shop, supermarket, importer etc. would triumph against the competition. Like 100m Olympic athletes entering the blocks for the race of their life, the line-up of wines in the winners trophy room represented years of hard work, sacrifice, dedication and commitment. After indulging in a few choice vinous offerings and mingling with some wine trade friends, we were at last beckoned to the main auditorium where the awards ceremony would be held.

Each of the three courses were accompanied by a trophy-winning wine, served in the perfect drinking vessel and at the optimum temperature. The pause between courses was interrupted only by the list of nominations for each category, of which there were many. After what seemed an eternity it was finally our turn to go all Usain Bolt and step into the blocks. The list of contenders for London Wine Merchant of the Year was short yet distinguished (a little like my date) and I prepared to feign a smile if we were runners up. Thankfully, the runner-up prize was destined to go elsewhere that evening, leaving us in in reach of the top spot – an all or nothing situation. As a brief synopsis of the winner was read out we knew instantly that it was ours. No other wine shop can be described as, ‘a young, enthusiastic band of wine nuts who hold ’61 horizontal tastings in their cellars for fun.’

And so, after accepting our award on stage we were whisked away to be interviewed by Decanter (twice – I believe they had to adjust the sound for Mark’s booming voice – were they not told in advance?) and to have our pictures taken. All very glitzy.  The remainder of the night was a bit of a blur, but after one or two more libations we were away into the night, Decanter London Wine Merchant of the Year award in tow.

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Thinking of Becoming a Wine Grower?

Domaine Chavy-Chouet, Puligny-Montrachet

One of the best parts of my job is visiting restaurants with our wine producers. There is always a fascinating interaction between the buyers (highly trained professionals) and the producers (highly passionate winemakers). The sheer knowledge you can gain by just sitting next to a winemaker all day is astounding.

On one of my latest visits I met Andrea Briccarello, wine buyer for Galvin Restaurants, and took with me Burgundian producer Romaric Chavy of Domaine Chavy-Chouet. As we were tasting Romaric’s fantastic wines the discussion moved to vineyard prices in Burgundy. I already knew that top vineyards in Burgundy were the most expensive agricultural land in the world, but I didn’t know exactly how much that meant. Well, now I have the figures:

  • Puligny-Montrachet: €1,200,000 per hectare
  • Puligny Montrachet  1er Cru: €2,160,000 per hectare
  • Batard-Montrachet: €9,600,000 per hectare
  • Le Montrachet: €24,000,000 per hectare

Fancy growing some vines anyone?

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The Wines of Armand Rousseau – Our Tasting Written Up

Just a quick note to draw your attention to Wine Anorak, where Jamie Goode has a very nice write-up of our vertical tasting of the great Armand Rousseau’s Burgundies. Now that was a great evening.

If you like the sound of it, keep an eye out in the next few weeks for a brand new tasting schedule from us taking things all the way up to Christmas.

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The Super-Sized Scotch Egg: Made for Beaujolais

The Harwood Arms' Famous Scotch Egg

Some months ago after a long, cold walk through the New Forest, I stopped in at a pub called The Master Builders in the very small hamlet of Bucklers Hard – formally a shipyard for Nelson’s navy (there’s a 5 star ship-building museum there, if that sort of thing floats your boat).

The menu contained what I considered at the time to be a ground-breaking innovation in pub food technology: super-sized Scotch eggs. The wondrous snack that I know and love, but 5 times the standard size. I assumed it must be a closely guarded New Forest speciality that had never made it beyond the treeline, but I have since found them in many London pubs, where they have probably been available for many years and I’ve just never noticed.

The quality varies greatly. At worst they are pale, dry, crusty and probably dangerous. At best, however, they are truly the food of the gods and I recently discovered that the very best is to be found at 1 Michelin star gastro pub, The Harwood Arms. A perfect construction of breadcrumbs, minced venison, and what appeared to be a duck’s egg within, the yolk still medium soft; it was truly a master class in Scotch egg preparation and one which I urge you to experience.

Mine was very much enhanced by the fact that I wasn’t paying, and by the very fine bottle of our very own Julian Sunier Morgon 2010 that accompanied our meal. I would never have picked this myself as I never pick anything from Beaujolais, but this is a really exceptional wine: an elegant, delicate structure, with gentle red fruit flavours and perfect balance. Try some with a good pork and egg based snack soon.

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Flair Enough – The Principles of Champagne Web Design

Here at robersonwine.com we spend a lot of time trying to make using our site as pleasingly straightforward as possible. But ours is not the only way. Across the Channel the French have turned the style-is-all website into a fine art. And the crème de la crème of these Masters of Flash are the Champagne houses. To visit the website of a Champagne producer is to enter a virtual world where any semblance of helpfulness or functionality has been mercilessly repressed in the name of  that elusive continental quality: ‘flair’. You may go in thinking, ‘I’ll just check the alcohol content of the Brut Reserve for this brochure I’m making – shouldn’t be more than a minute’, but you will come out (usually many hours later) with the intense online experience that only a ‘luxury brand’ can provide seared into your brain forever.

If you’re an aspiring Champagne producer looking to build a website to compete with the best, you may be wondering where on earth to start. Well never fear, you’ve come to the right place. I have selflessly spent many hours studying the work of the webmasters of Champagne and have distilled their art down into five simple principles. Stick to these and you’ll be well on your way to harnessing the raw power of flair.

 

1. Flash – The Only Language Worth Understanding

In much the same way that French is obviously the world’s first language but also needs a committee to protect it from Anglicization, Flash is the best and only option for the flair-focused webmaster. Any mention of HTML 5 and the like should be stubbornly ignored. Remember that just because things move on, it doesn’t mean you can’t put a little fence around the old thing and pretend it’s not happening.

 

2. If it Works, Fix It

Flair is fun, and you’ll want to make sure your site is packed with little tricks to make the user experience more interesting. Thinking of starting with a five minute Flash intro (if you aren’t, you should be), then why not add a little ‘skip intro’ button that appears halfway through but doesn’t work? Or better yet, have it start the whole process again. Hilarious! Remember the golden rule: if it works, you’re probably not paying enough attention to style and your flair factor will suffer.

 

3. It’s Better with Music

While we’re at it, a word about music. Who doesn’t like music? No one, that’s who. As long as it’s loud and you can’t turn it off without ripping the plug socket out of the wall in desperation, it’s extra flair points, so go for it.

 

4. Absolutely No Children

Champagne websites are for adults only. This cannot be stressed enough. There is a real danger that, should a minor gain access, they will be driven insane by the confusing design and transformed into a violent alcoholic. Fortunately, anybody under the age of 18 who wants to waste the precious days of their youth trying to browse a website that looks as though it’s channelling Donald Trump in a beret is obviously too stupid to tick the box confirming that they are old enough to do so. But just to be on the safe side, it’s as well to make the age verification process as tiresome as possible, with separate drop-down boxes for each digit and a list of countries including things like ‘England’ filed under ‘U’.

 

5. The Customer is Always Wrong

People may think they are visiting your website to discover a certain piece of information, but what do they know? What they really want is to be taken on a journey, a virtual experience that embodies the luxury nature of your brand. Accordingly, don’t just stick in a menu with headings like ‘Our Wines’, ‘About Us’, and so on. Where’s the mystery in that? Instead, use words that don’t really mean anything, like ‘Essence’ or ‘Vague’. Whatever you do, you must make sure you hide all the links inside a giant image. There is nothing the user subconsciously craves more than the opportunity to move their mouse around a virtual Rococo palace, waiting for something to jump out that they can click on like a Whac-A-Mole, in the hope that one of them will somehow turn out to be what they were looking for (although of course you will have made sure it won’t be, in line with point 2 above).

 

Work on the French language, all Flash version of robersonwine.com has not yet commenced.

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An Anniversary Surprise

Lamb as seen by a butcher

A married couple have but one anniversary a year and, on that very strict basis, even I am prepared to cast all fiscal caution and reason and sense and prudence and logic to the wind and, for 2.5 hours on that happy date, indulge myself. And my wife.

Apparently Pizza Express no longer cuts the mustard for such celebrations, and so it was that upon the earnest recommendation of a colleague, my wife and I visited the magnificent Medlar restaurant on the King’s Road.

Their dinner menu is priced very reasonably at £39.50 for three courses, and we were both most impressed by the food, which was inventively conceived and executed to perfection. So inventively conceived, it transpires, that I (inadvertently) ordered lamb’s testicles (lamb’s ‘fries’) for my starter, while my wife played it slightly safer with an exquisite crab raviolo. My main course of assiette of pork provided a wonderful concoction of flavours and her choice of roast coquelet with aligot, swiss chard and sauce charcutiere was probably the stand-out dish of the evening. Both were beautifully matched by one of my favourite wines, Roberson’s very own Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champs Gains’ by Domaine Chavy-Chouet. The complex aromas, perfect balance and incredible length of this wine never cease to amaze. Indeed, I might have doted on this slightly more than I ought to have during the meal and may well have lost the thread of the conversation on occasion.

My colleague told me that the cheese plate is very good, but I got distracted and opted for the mille-feuille, which made for an excellent finale. A very enjoyable meal and an excellent evening – I highly recommend Medlar to you all.

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