Most wine producers in Rioja work as negociants; while they might own some of their own vineyards, these are often scattered in different parcels across the region, supplemented by bought-in fruit supplied by contracted growers. While a high-quality negociant-made wine is certainly not an impossibility, it's striking that most of the world's finest wines are produced by single estates, making wines solely from their own estate-grown fruit.

It's not complicated - if you only make wine from your own fruit, then you're able to control every single aspect of the grape-growing and winemaking process. And this is why Bodegas Campillo, a single estate located in the heart of the superior sub-region of Rioja Alavesa, is able to make such exceptionally high-quality wines.

With a winery so modern and well-equipped that it's the envy of Rioja, Bodegas Campillo's output might be expected to come with a enviously steep price. But this certainly doesn't apply to the deliciously drinkable El Niño de Campillo, a young, modern and wonderfully approachable Rioja, and one of our finds of the year.

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Jancis Robinson MW