Domaine Huet have the thankless task of producing some of the finest examples of one of the world’s most under-appreciated wines. Vouvray is currently deeply unfashionable, but the outstanding wines made here with their great sweetness, high acidity and ageing ability beyond almost any other wine make them a fantastic bargain to those who know. At a recent tasting, the 1937s were drinking very nicely, but then so were the 1990s and, in fact, almost all of them. Huet makes wine from three vineyards: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont and Le Clos du Bourg – in a sweet or dry style according to the vintage. Each has a distinct character but all are outstandingly good.