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'Superior to the 2007, the 2006 Hermitage reminds me of Chave’s brilliant 1991. An incredibly subtle perfume of black raspberries, creme de cassis, camphor, and acacia flowers is followed by an elegant, concentrated wine with beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol. This seamless, gorgeously-proportioned, large-framed wine represents the definition of finesse, elegance, and terroir. It will be drinkable in several years, and should last for 20-25 years. ' - Robert Parker

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'As I wrote last year, the 2009 Hermitage La Chapelle is easily the greatest, most profound La Chapelle since the 1990. Most of this cuvee comes from Le Meal and Les Bessards vineyards, with a touch of Les Roucoules fruit in the blend. It is an opaque purple-colored wine with enormous concentration in addition to an extraordinary bouquet of graphite, creme de cassis, blackberries, licorice, beef blood and a touch of smoked game. Boasting phenomenal intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and 50 years of longevity, the only thing that could possibly hold it back is that most consumers should plan on laying it away for 8-10 years.' Robert Parker.

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'The uber-impressive 2010 Hermitage Les Bessards ranks alongside the perfect 2009. The strikingly intense powdered stone/granite minerality is apparent in this wine of great intensity, prodigious, almost skyscraper-like texture, massive body and high tannins. It is only for true connoisseurs who have a cold cellar as well as the patience to wait a minimum of a decade for it to round into drinking form. Filled with potential, it is one of the single greatest Hermitages I have ever tasted. There is no hint of its 100% new oak aging! ' - Robert Parker

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The 1996 Barbaresco exhibits a dense ruby color as well as a forward nose of cherry liqueur, earth, truffle, mineral, and spicy scents. Rich, full-bodied, and seductive, with its moderate tannin largely concealed by the wine's wealth of fruit and extract, this gorgeously pure offering gets my nod as the finest Barbaresco produced by Gaja since 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016. Robert Parker.

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'The 1999 Masseto is a cool, inward wine graced with exquisite finesse, but it still needs a few years in bottle to show its potential. That said, it is pretty spectacular even today. This is a vintage that will appeal to readers who enjoy firm, structured wines. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.' - Wine Advocate

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'The 2003 Masseto opens with a huge, expressive super-ripe nose. Ample and expansive on the palate, it displays much opulence in its generous fruit, with awesome concentration, outstanding length and a lovely vein of minerality which provides a level of freshness that is surprising for the vintage. A lingering note of sweetness punctuates the long finish. It should drink well for at least another decade, although it is absolutely irresistible today. It is a stunning wine. Owing to the challenging nature of the vintage, in 2003 Masseto was made only from the central part of the vineyard which is planted with the oldest vines. 93/Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.' - Wine Advocate

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"The 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025." Wine Advocate

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"The estate’s 2007 Scrio (Syrah) is simply breathtaking. This rich, opulent red caresses the palate seamlessly with masses of dark fruit in a large-scaled expression of Syrah. Spices, mint and flowers develop in the glass, adding further shades of nuance. The plushness of the fruit builds towards a rich, immensely rewarding finish. Scrio is fermented in open-top French oak barriques, and the oak is noticeable at this stage, so the wine is best left alone in the cellar for a few years. This is magnificent juice! Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. " - Wine Advocate

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The 1991 Vina Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva offers shaved almond, lemon rind, honeysuckle and dandelion on the well-defined nose that demands coaxing. The palate is crisp on the entry with dried honey, dried mango and citrus peel on the entry, fanning out towards a complex, resinous finish with a hint of rosewater on the aftertaste. Drink now-2020+ - Neal Martin, Wine Advocate.

I have adored, indeed occasionally worshiped, the wines of Lopez de Heredia for many years, so I am not ashamed to admit that visiting both their vineyard and their winery was a pilgrimage. Founded by Rafael Lopez de Heredia y Landeta in 1877, it has withstood the tide of corporatization and homogeneity, and epitomizes timeless, artisan winemaking in their own individual, almost solipsistic manner. Technology is noticeable by its absence here. For example, to quote her sister Maria-Jose at a tasting that I subsequently attended in London: “Indigenous yeasts have adapted to high temperatures. To control the temperature during fermentation, we open doors and windows” and “malolactic is the invention of modern winemakers.” I had to check whether this was 2012 or 1912. If you were to award points for charisma, then this producer would be in a league of its own. That would count for nothing if their wines were not distinguished, individual, long-lived and above all, delicious. It is commonly known that if you are seeking bags of fruit and lashings of oak, this is not the place to come. My views and these scores might be irrational to someone with a penchant for lush, voluptuous Rioja. Lopez de Heredia is the apotheosis of traditional, classic wines: taut, fresh, bucolic, utterly charming and amazingly long-lived. I spent two or three hours with winemaker Mercedes Lopez de Heredia, who was celebrating her birthday with, appropriately enough, a bottle of Tondonia Gran Reserva from her year of birth. I urge readers to access the video I took of Mercedes explaining the vineyard in her own breathless style. In the meantime, I will crack on with the wines “Wines should talk by themselves,” Maria-Jose enthused to her enraptured audience at a tasting in London. “My father was a vine maker, not a winemaker. Each wine is a reflection of a different land that my great-grandfather bought. Our wines respond to the history of Rioja.” I would add to her comments that since these are mainly aged wines, a bottle of Lopez de Heredia is an individual and each time you meet, you may see a different side to its personality. So treat these reviews as they are: snapshots at a given moment. We commence with their white wines and indeed, I know of several connoisseurs who rate these even better than their reds and I can sympathize with that view. “The white wines were made as a copy of Graves and were made to be aged,” Marie-Jose continued. “So they are made like reds and are harvested at the same time. They undergo skin contact for one, two or three days to absorb the preservative from the skins and pips. Viura gives complexity as it ages - Neal Martin, Wine Advocate

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The 1995 Unico is a worthy successor to the profound 1994 (awarded a score of 98+ in Issue #159). Opaque purple in color, it has aromatic complexity which nearly defies words. There are notes of earth, licorice, hard wood charcoal, and black currants. Full-bodied, and powerful, the wine has beautiful balance with a multi-dimensional character and the structure to last for 25-40 years. The 1960 and the 1965, drunk within the last several months, appear to have many more years ahead - Jay Miller, The Wine Advocate

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The saturated purple 2004 Valbuena offers up an expressive perfume of mineral, scorched earth, espresso, incense, and black cherry. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, intensely flavored, spicy wine with layers of fruit, soft tannins, and a pure, lengthy finish. It will benefit from another 5-7 years of bottle age and offer optimal drinking from 2015 to 2029.

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'The dark ruby-colored 2003 Grenache Old Vines Clarendon Hills exhibits a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, dusty soil, pepper, and herbs. Consume this full-bodied, corpulent Grenache over the next 5-6 years.' - Robert Parker

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"A blockbuster offering is the 2006 Panoplie (68% Mourvedre, 27% Grenache, and 5% Syrah). Aged in large wood foudres and the smaller demi-muids, this beauty reveals notes of soy, roasted herbs, gamy animal, and copious quantities of black and blue fruits. With superb texture, full-bodied richness, and a long finish, it should drink nicely for 10-15 years." - Robert Parker

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