Cool Climate Classic
Our Consumer Sales and Events ambassador, Lona Jones muses over the changing fortunes of German Riesling. Riesling - A steep slope to stardom German wines made an impression on me in the 80’s, with sweet, easily quaffable Liebfraumilch, Piesporter Michelsberg and Blue Nun being the mainstay of enlightened neighbours' drinks cabinets. Times and tastes have moved on, however, but the negative image of low quality, sugary German wines appears slow to shake off. But, what are we missing? The Victorians valued German Hock wines as part of a holy trinity, alongside Claret and Champagne, and a Rudesheim Riesling was paired with poached salmon and mousseline sauce, in the first class dining room of the Titanic. Luckily, German wines and Rieslings, in particular, have been championed by influential wine critics like Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson for some time and at Roberson, we feel it’s high time to celebrate this fine grape. In July, we're focussing on 31 days of Riesling. My favourite styles are bone-dry ‘Trocken’ or GG ‘Great Growth’ (equivalent to Grand Crus in Germany). Dry Rieslings are naturally high in fruity acidity, without the harshness attached to some other high acid grapes. Aromatic and often low in alcohol, they ripen late so, in cool climates, can only attain optimal ripeness in the best positioned vineyards. Try our delicious Weingut Weschler Riesling Trocken as an example. Despite my initial introductions, I have tentatively re-visited off dry and sweet versions of Riesling and can honestly say, these wines are a world away from the bulk versions popularised last century. Kabinett styles show punchy acidity with a hint of residual sugar and are extremely refreshing. Auslese is made from hand picked ripe fruit. This style can be fermented dry or ‘Feinherb’ which means ripe and balanced with some sweetness - as with the Green Capsule Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese from Markus Molitor. More often these are big complex, sweet wines that can age for decades. Markus Molitor's Gold Capsule series Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is amongst the best there is. Whatever your preferred style, there’s no better time to acquaint yourself with the delights the Rhine has to offer and indulge in cool-climate, quality wines.
Made in England
Winery and Events Manager Lindsey looks at London Cru's role in the growth of English wines. A Rising Tide Floats All Boats As we are featuring wines ‘Made in Europe’ this month, it seemed only right that we should consider our own winery, sitting a floor below the offices of Roberson Wine in West London. For the last 6 years we have been making wines under the London Cru brand, establishing ourselves as a serious winemaker with numerous award-winning wines in our portfolio and a strong client base. Our claim to be ‘London’s only’ urban winery has, however, now been fine-tuned to ‘London’s first’ since the launch of several new urban wineries, not just in London but around the UK. We are both flattered and proud to see the concept take off and we love a challenge, so in the last six months we’ve rolled up our sleeves and refurbished our winery, creating a dedicated, stylish new tasting room and events space and have concentrated our efforts in sourcing and making only English wine, with carefully selected grapes from our home turf. Why make only English wine? Our most successful wines have consistently been made from English grapes, illustrating that people in London love quality, locally-grown and made wine. We’ve seen our friends in the restaurant trade listing more English wines too, reflecting their increased quality and consumer demand for local produce. The general buoyancy of the English wine market can’t be overlooked either, with a 2017 WSTA report stating that the UK wine market is the 6th largest wine market in the world and the 2nd largest trader by volume AND value. There are 503 vineyards and 133 wineries in the UK, and a million vines were planted in 2017. 2018 looks set to the follow this growth pattern, with Wine GB’s Julia Trustram Eve saying, “we have seen year-on-year growth for the last 10 years now – hectarage has doubled in the last decade – and it is set to continue.” Recent predictions suggest 1.7m vines being planted this year. As we’ve started the summer with record-breaking temperatures and hours of sunshine, all bodes well for English wines in 2018 and we are excitedly looking forward to what we can do with this year’s crop. While you’re waiting for the 2018 wines - try our 2017 West Sussex English Chardonnay, Chancery Lane">. Light and delicate in the mouth with aromas of fresh green apples and pears, it’s best when chilled to perfection and paired with a seafood salad on these glorious summer evenings.
Mind over Malbec
Our European Buyer Jack Green spots the beginnings of a quality revolution in Cahors Malbec. Love Malbec? Of Cahors we do. On my recent visit to Cahors, a sleepy wine region in Southern France, I visited a new winery named Prieuré de Cénac, which has just been taken over by the renowned ‘Fabre’ family from Argentina. The place is picture perfect; as owner Hervé explained, when he first visited the Château ‘we stood quite still and were both struck by its beauty and overwhelmed with an incredibly good and peaceful feeling’. The principal variety in Cahors is Malbec, which is why this family, pioneers of Argentine Malbec, were so interested in making wine here. You can trace winemaking in Cahors back to the era of Ancient Rome, with some documents showing vineyards being planted around 50BC. That’s an awfully long time to perfect winemaking, and when Malbec vines from Cahors were taken over to Argentina, they discovered its terroir was perfectly suited to this Southern French grape. Argentinian Malbec has since become one of the most recognised wines in the UK and is poured, I imagine, in pretty much any restaurant in the country that has steak on its menu. So, what makes Malbec so popular? That story could start right here at Roberson Wine. Our founder Cliff Roberson cut his teeth in the wine trade many years ago by seeking out wines that supermarkets didn’t list but had huge potential. One of those was Argentinian Malbec. It became so popular for its favourable price and rich, exuberant, velvety palate that soon every wine shop in the country wanted it. For Hervé, having established one of the most successful Argentinian wineries after making his name as a respected wine merchant in Bordeaux, it’s a return to his roots. Cahors is the true birthplace of this magical varietal and it didn’t take him long to decide he had to invest in it. The vines of Prieuré de Cénac are grown on a plateau some 350 meters above sea level. Our favourite from this estate is the Mission de Picpus, recently awarded the Trophy and 95 points at the IWC awards. The wine is beautiful – bursting with dark fruit and soft, earthy flavours. This is a wine destined to be drunk with roasted meats, cassoulets or a lovely wedge of Comté.
Celebrating English Chardonnay
Liz Sagues, author of A Celebration of English Wine (Robert Hale, 2018), investigates the growing success of English Chardonnay English Chardonnay - Something to Celebrate? English Chardonnay: what a world away, in flavour as well as distance, from the gold-hued, oaky, vanilla-sweet examples that gave the grape such a bad reputation, prompted the ABC (anything but Chardonnay) movement and still influence those wine drinkers who have never realised that Chablis is made from Chardonnay. And Chablis is so much better a comparison for English Chardonnay than wines from hotter vineyards. Our home product isn't truly Chablis-like, even though some who make it hint at that. But it does share some characteristics, with a properly British individuality – after all, there can be very considerable similarity in the soils into which the vine roots dig. While English Chardonnay has the crispness of the French classic, there isn't yet the same stony minerality, and the scents and flavours more often evoke the flowers of hedgerow and meadow than tropical fruits. As befits so young an introduction, styles vary a lot, from the very light and almost tart to denser, riper wines. Oak rarely appears – generally, unless the cellar skill is very high, a good thing with such delicate raw material. Older vines, and a little more maturity before wines are sold, will surely raise the 'wow' level soon. Quite rightly, Chardonnay is called the chameleon grape, and England will as the years progress add more colours to the existing spectrum, though they will surely remain bright and fresh. To put the present story in context, a little history is relevant. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are now by far the most-planted grape varieties in England, a massive switch from the late 20th century, when Müller-Thurgau, Reichensteiner and Seyval Blanc filled the vineyards and the noble varieties were rare. But they were there: Sir Guy Salisbury Jones, the man who revived English commercial viticulture after WWII with his 1950s Hambledon vineyard, had Chardonnay vines. Ripening was a problem, though. Pathé filmmakers recording the 1972 harvest thought the berries were 'too small and too green'; Chris Foss, head of the pioneering wine department at Plumpton College, felt much the same about other plantings a decade later: 'Chardonnay berries were like frozen peas'. The revolution in vine choice has come about for two reasons. One is that noble varieties now ripen properly most years in England, because of the gentle rise in summer temperatures (global warming is less welcome for the weather variability and violence it also brings). The other, probably more influential, is the success of English sparkling wine, where the vast majority of Chardonnay grapes end up. Fizz needs acid, and England's grapes have that. But the increasing, and increasingly good, examples of still Chardonnay are proving that the destination should not always be sparkling. A good number of new entrants release still Chardonnay while waiting for their sparkling wine to be ready for the market – it makes budget sense. There are, though, going to be more and more producers for whom still wine is most important, and significant figures favour Chardonnay. London Cru's 2017 Chancery Lane English Chardonnay is on sale now at £18 per bottle.
Pale and Interesting
Our European buyer Jack Green reflects on the rise of Provence rosé to conquer the world's summer-drinking pleasure. St-Tropez State of Mind In this business we always have one eye on drinking trends, to see if we can spot what the next big thing will be. If you had told me ten years ago that pale rosé from Provence, or indeed anywhere, would be the wine in everyone’s glass, I’d have been surprised and intrigued. I’m sure anyone who has been to the south of France in the summer will say ‘come on, we’ve been drinking it for years’. What’s changing though, is countries outside of France are now cleverly producing rosé wines in the lighter, zippy style commonly associated with Provence. Even our winery London Cru made a rosé last year, which ended up being poured all summer at the Oxo Tower Brasserie in central London. What could be better? For me though, you have to start at the beginning: St Tropez, Provence. It was only when I visited the region for the first time last year, that I realised why Provence and rosé go hand in hand. Those long, hot summers that seem to go on forever, spent wandering the cobbled streets of St Tropez. Those lunches that start at midday and inevitably end up lasting until the evening, watching the sun setting over the Mediterranean. And, if you’re that way inclined, relaxing on your yacht on the calmest, crystal clear water you’ve ever seen. There is only one drink that seems to encapsulate all of this in one glass… a cold, crisp, pale rosé from Provence. Our absolute favourite Château in Provence is Château Minuty, which just happens to be a 20-minute drive from the centre of St Tropez, and one of the first of the 14 Châteaux be crowned Cru Classé along with its rivals Domaine Ott and Chateau Roubine. Our favourite location to enjoy a glass of Château Minuty is at the legendary Club 55. Famous for its fresh, seasonal produce, it’s hard to miss in St Tropez, right on the beach. But what if you can’t make it to St Tropez? Well, we have invited Sebastien Nore of Minuty to join us on the 17th July for a day of everything Provençal. First up, we’ll be enjoying a delicious, typical Provençal lunch, accompanied by our most popular rosé wines, M de Minuty and Rose et Or. Then, in the evening, we’ll be enjoying l’apero - Sebastien from Minuty will be pouring Château Minuty’s entire range, matched with typical snacks from Provence. As well as M de Minuty and Rose et Or, we'll also be tasting Minuty's white Blanc et Or and their exquisite super-cuvée 281. Tickets for both events are on sale now – don’t miss them.
On-Trade Sales Manager David Adamick investigates which wines match best with summer's seasonal flavours. You'll find all of the wines he recommends in our Savouring Summer Collection. Matching Summer's Seasonal ingredients with wine If you’d read my blog some months ago, you’ll recall my aversion to most, if not all things autumnal/hibernal and so will be relieved to learn that I’ve managed to emerge out the other end. Scathed, but still with the will to type. But what a bank holiday weekend that was. And on the assumption it’s put you in the mood also, here’s a seasonal food update on what you’ve got to look forward to: In-Season Ingredients: Veg: Asparagus New potatoes Lettuce Aubergine Radish Peas Cucumber Cheeses: Soft English cheeses Reblochon Bleu d’Auvergne Chablichou Fish/seafood: Crab Mackerel Halibut Tuna Salmon Meat: Pork Lamb The Wines: Given it’s still early season, produce is delicate, fresh and green, and therefore we’re looking for wines of a similar nature. These delicate wines also accompany easily crab and halibut, as their flesh is equally so. Here we’ll look for racy, vibrant green/yellow fruited wines such as Domaine des Cognettes, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie – all organically-farmed, hand-harvested fruit, with its invigorating aromas of green apple, sea air, fresh yoghurt and oyster shell; the palate is full of creamy minerality and saline briskness; elegant green fruit with good leesiness to add body and length. This is such an overlooked appellation when the wines are right, and they are certainly so when from this great, great producer. Graham Tatomer’s 2017 Steinhugel Riesling from the Santa Lucia Highlands is of biodynamically farmed fruit on predominantly slate soils also does well here – and easily. Fine-tuned, creamy minerality underpins some lovely, yellow and white stone fruit, and always with the ‘old-world’ structure Graham insists upon. Similarly, zippy rosés are more than appropriate and no less so when in fizz form: 2017 Domaine J Laurens Crémant de Limoux Rosé is both a new addition to Roberson and an indispensable option for the season ahead. The Limoux region’s calcareous soils are ideal for Chardonnay, making up most of the assemblage, with 20% Pinot Noir for colour, red fruit, white pepper and body. Up the ante then, with Chris Brockway’s 2017 Love Rosé: an unusual and fascinating co-ferment of mostly Valdigué (once known as ‘Napa Gamay’) with small percentages of Zinfandel and Trousseau. High aromatics of watermelon and grapefruit with Zinfandel spice and a slightly waxy texture from the Trousseau. And though it weighs in at a mere 11% alcohol, Love Rosé’s acidity, spice and body will have it stand up to heavier, oilier fish as mackerel and tuna. Equally suited and from the eastern face of Mount Etna, Sicily, is a wonderful rosato blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from Cantine Murgo. Its brilliant, Provençale hue is of a properly dry rosé with lots of savoury red, pomegranate/currant fruit and white pepper. Absolutely perfect with ALL the above. Pork and lamb are quite simply at their best this time of year, and to keep things in line with the season’s produce we’ll stick with fresher styled reds: Jean-Paul Thevenet’s Morgon ‘Tradition’, Tatomer’s Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir and Chateau de la Bonnelière’s Chinon all have the structure, mineral core to drive their restrained fruit; no problem at all, either, to put on in the fridge for 25 minutes before serving as this will bring out that acidity just a little more to clean up fattier red meats as the aforementioned. Finally, though lamb dishes will go easily with just about any red wine, its added weight and oiliness tends to prefer a bit more guts in a red – though always wanting that acidity to keep the palate in shape. For this Domaine Maubernard’s 2013 Bandol is a perfect ticket: mainly Mourvèdre with a bit of Grenache, it is full bodied, spicy and big, but with lots and lots of minerality and structure to keep things on an even keel. Bags of dark, savoury, bitter/black fruit; a slight edginess that is wonderfully rustic and with a natural affinity to lamb. Given the small size and output of the appellation, the wines of Bandol are generally on the pricier side which is why we’ve chosen Domaine Maubernard as one of the best estates we’ve come across in a long time. Happy matching!
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