Cool Climate Classic
Published by Lona Jones on 19/07/2018
Our Consumer Sales and Events ambassador, Lona Jones muses over the changing fortunes of German Riesling.
German wines made an impression on me in the 80’s, with sweet, easily quaffable Liebfraumilch, Piesporter Michelsberg and Blue Nun being the mainstay of enlightened neighbours' drinks cabinets. Times and tastes have moved on, however, but the negative image of low quality, sugary German wines appears slow to shake off.
But, what are we missing? The Victorians valued German Hock wines as part of a holy trinity, alongside Claret and Champagne, and a Rudesheim Riesling was paired with poached salmon and mousseline sauce, in the first class dining room of the Titanic.
Luckily, German wines and Rieslings, in particular, have been championed by influential wine critics like Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson for some time and at Roberson, we feel it’s high time to celebrate this fine grape.
In July, we're focussing on 31 days of Riesling. My favourite styles are bone-dry ‘Trocken’ or GG ‘Great Growth’ (equivalent to Grand Crus in Germany). Dry Rieslings are naturally high in fruity acidity, without the harshness attached to some other high acid grapes. Aromatic and often low in alcohol, they ripen late so, in cool climates, can only attain optimal ripeness in the best positioned vineyards. Try our delicious Weingut Weschler Riesling Trocken as an example.
Despite my initial introductions, I have tentatively re-visited off dry and sweet versions of Riesling and can honestly say, these wines are a world away from the bulk versions popularised last century. Kabinett styles show punchy acidity with a hint of residual sugar and are extremely refreshing. Auslese is made from hand picked ripe fruit. This style can be fermented dry or ‘Feinherb’ which means ripe and balanced with some sweetness - as with the Green Capsule Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese from Markus Molitor.
More often these are big complex, sweet wines that can age for decades. Markus Molitor's Gold Capsule series Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is amongst the best there is.
Whatever your preferred style, there’s no better time to acquaint yourself with the delights the Rhine has to offer and indulge in cool-climate, quality wines.
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