ELENI AND EDOUARD VOCORET - GIANT SLAYING CHABLIS
With a continued focus on Burgundy, its time to cast a light on one of the most exciting producers in Chablis, Domaine Eleni and Edouard Vocoret
In their short existence Eleni and Edouard have taken the Chablis world by storm. They have not only impressed the critics, they have blown them away. Neal Martin comments below that Vocoret’s ‘Butteaux’ “overshadowed” Raveneau. When you factor in the price, this is quite the achievement, with Vocoret’s ‘Butteaux’ released at under £40 a bottle (in bond) compared to the £150+ commanded by Raveneau.
“The Vocorets are really making splendid wines. Case in point, a 2015 Butteaux ordered at the Chablis restaurant Au Fils du Zinc put in a blistering performance that overshadowed the accompanying bottle from Raveneau. Hopefully more abundant harvests will give them a chance to really shine.”
The question is, what is the story behind this new, giant slaying Domaine?
The Vocoret name is one that is well known in Chablis, Edouard’s family have been growing and producing wines in the region for generations. Edouard’s wife, Eleni, honed her skills under Vincent Dauvissat, undoubtedly a name synonymous with quality in Chablis.
In 2012 Edouard inherited 5 ha of vines from his grandfather and from that their Domaine was born. Their holdings include a small parcel of 1er Cru 'Les Butteaux', the rest is village level; however this is not to say there is a compromise in quality.
They make 4 wines;
1er Cru 'Les Butteaux' - The jewel in the Vocoret crown, a 0.3 ha from one of the finest 1er cru sites in Burgundy. It produces superbly expressive wines with racy acidity and wonderful salinity. This is the most age worthy.
Les Pargues – The Pargues vineyard really ought to be classified as Premier Cru, it lies directly between Montmains and Vosgros on the same slope. However, when the vineyards were classified the Pargues site was omitted as it wasn't under vine, having been destroyed by Phylloxera.
Le Bas de Chapelot - This wine represents astonishing value, produced from a small vineyard that sits just under the famed Premier Cru ‘Montée de Tonnerre. This wine is an absolute go to Chablis, delivering fantastic acidity and fruit from the get go.
En Boucheran – A wine with great richness, the fruit is picked from three different levels in the vineyard giving excellent complexity. Again, excellent value for money and offers immediate drinking pleasure.
Since the beginning they have been committed to making wines of the highest quality and this shows in the below table especially when you consider the value to be had;
While I have mentioned the Premier Cru, it is also important to mention ‘Les Pargues’, a wine that should be, for all intents and purposes, a Premier Cru, save for the fact it wasn’t under vine during classification. The ‘Les Pargues’ site was struck with Phylloxera and was grubbed up prior to classification, meaning it is therefore Village level. However, given its location between two exceptional Premier Cru sites, ‘Montmain’s and ‘Vosgros’, ‘Les Pargues’ produces exquisite Chablis, at a fraction of the cost of a Premier Cru, the 2019 will release at under £25 a bottle (in bond).
Their wines have scored consistently well for Neal Martin, which really demonstrates the levels of quality they are able to achieve with their holdings.
The 2019’s, which are due out in the next couple of weeks, are testament to the skills of Eleni and Edouard. In his recent report Neal Martin has scored all the wines exceptionally, full tasting notes below;
1er Cru Butteaux – 93-95 NM
"The 2019 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru has a more conservative nose than the Village Crus, austere and reserved yet with fine mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and superb salinity, touches of shucked oyster shells emerging toward a finish that fans out gently. This deserves a couple of years in bottle to really show what it can do (which is a lot)."
Les Pargues – 92-94 NM
"The 2019 Chablis Les Pargues has a stunning nose of orange zest, yuzu and citrus lemon – scents that seem to spring from the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a saline lick, very zesty and intense. The vivid finish leaves you with a smile on your face. Fantastic."
Le Bas de Chapelot - 92-94 NM
"The 2019 Chablis Le Bas de Chapelot is more discreet on the nose compared to the Les Pargues, displaying subtle scents of blood orange and apricot blossom, beautifully defined as usual. The palate is vibrant and lively with a keen bitter lemon edge, dovetailing into a concentrated finish. Excellent."
En Boucheran – 90-92 NM
"The 2019 Chablis Boucheron, which had been in barrel since March, has a pretty nose of expressive yellow flowers mixed with honeysuckle and light jasmine scents. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry, edgy and tensile, with a vibrant peppery finish. Good potential – lots of energy locked up in this Chablis."
If you would like to hear about the upcoming releases, please contact Private Client Sales Manager Patrick Robinson