A stunning old vine Morgon from Thévenet, one of the 'Gang of Four' who revolutionised wine in the Beaujolais region with an extraordinary focus on quality.
Jean-Paul Thévenet is one of the Gang of Four of Beaujolais (the others being Guy Breton, Jean Foillard and Marcel Lapierre) and perhaps best embodies the "old school" qualities that these winemakers have championed. ...Learn more
“The 2018 Morgon Vieilles Vignes bursts from the glass with a high-toned bouquet of red cherries, rose petals and orange rind. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with lively acids, melting tannins and a succulent core of fruit. This is a charming rendition of a cuvée that's routinely among the appellation's most elegant, and it's already drinking well. Thévenet told me that there will be two bottlings, the wine reviewed here being the first of them.”
“Another natural wine pioneer on the Roberson books, Jean-Paul Thévenet has a stock of very old (70-100-year-old) vines in Morgon, and works with natural yeasts and a minimum of sulphur to create joyously vibrant red wines with, in this case, a vivid macerated dark cherry character and a touch of earthy complexity. Concentrated fruit, but presented with a lightness of touch, this is simply delicious.' ”
“Vivid ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of fresh raspberry and candied rose, with white pepper, allspice and blood orange notes adding complexity. Silky, seamless and fine-grained, offering lively, appealingly sweet red fruit flavors and a touch of spicecake. Shows excellent energy and focus on the mineral-driven finish, which displays a repeating raspberry note and even tannins. This wine is made from fruit grown in two different parcels, one planted in the late 1960s and the other over 110 years ago.”
“Thevenet, part of the informal gang with Breton, Lapierre and Foillard, has played a key role in reviving the image of Beaujolais by going back to old practices. From 70-year-old vines, this has tart cranberry and raspberry fruit on a full, long, mineral palate. Just 2,000 cases, so hurry! ”
“The 2013 Morgon Vieilles Vignes, from Charly’s father Jean-Paul, comes from two parcels of vine, one of which was planted before World War I. It sees 6 to 8 months in old Burgundy barrels. It has a very suave bouquet of red currant and raspberry coulis, well-defined and unfolding with every swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded and smooth tannins, finely tuned acidity, but just missing a little tension and delineation toward the finish. There is certainly good weight here, although I would give it two years in bottle as it is so backward at the moment. ”