Branaire-Ducru is still somewhat underrated. From the mid-1990s the wines have been extremely consistent, and, 2003 apart, there are no real disappointments. The wines are never blockbusters and may be less dramatic than some other top St-Juliens; but their balance, freshness, and complex fruit combine to ensure that Branaire is one of the most enjoyable St-Juliens, often drinkable young, but sufficiently balanced and structured to age well. Stephen Brook, The Complete Bordeaux.

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